Two Wheel Fix - My R6 has busted Fork Seal need help.

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My R6 has busted Fork Seal need help.

I posted this in another thread that is related but no one answered my question so im making my own thread.

I recently went to the dealer to just have them look over a few small things i was worried about. (didnt need to worry everything was fine) Anyways they went ahead and looked over the whole bike for me and rode it around a little bit and found somethings that i had not noticed. One of my Fork seals has a leak. I need a new Air Filter and a rear tire (well i knew i needed a tire just dont have the cash at the moment lol). So I thought i should try and fix the forks first. I need some help in that field cause ive never done anything like that before. I dont have a lift but i have 2 Car jacks lol so i can get the front wheel off but im not really sure what all i need to do to replace the fluid and the seals. Also im pretty sure its never been done before and its got 19,356 miles on it so it needs to get done. If Anyone has any experience on a 2000 R6 i would really appreciate any help.

I was thinking that if you could lend me some knowledge GAS or anyone else i would really appreciate it. I dont want to pay out the ass for a something i can do myself.

Quote:

So you noticed little oil rings on your upper fork tube, or oil is leaking down onto your rotor. Most likely you have a leaking fork seal. The danger is obvious, it is important to fix it ASAP. This can be done in an evening your first time, and shouldnt be more than $50 in parts.

There are many ways to go about this. Some people may want to replace other components of the suspension while the forks are off, but write up is just for the fork seals. I am not a professional mechanic. By doing things this way, you assume all liability for damage to your bike. This should only be used as a helpful giude to supplement the OEM manual. These links should prove helpful as well:

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/forkseals/
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/howtoforkseal/
http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/forkseal.html

What you will need:

Rear stand
Front headstock stand (or floor jack and 2x4)
bottle jack

Replacement fork seals
Replacement dust covers (optional, are yours in good shape?)
Replacement O-ring for fork cap. (optional)
1 quart of oil. (I used 10W-30 since my fork oil is 10W)
1000cc of fork oil.
fork oil gauge or ratio cup
27mm deep socket, ratchet.
6mm hex key
5mm hex key
small flathead screwdriver
Seal driver (or homemade device)
tape measure

Start by breaking the fork cap loose. Do not remove it yet, just pop it loose so it is easier to remove later.

Put the rear of the bike on a stand, then either jack the bike up or use a front headstock stand to get the front wheel off of the ground. I used a jack with a 2x4 on the stock headers. I do not recommend this way, but it was my only option. Remove the ram air covers, front calipers (hang them out of the way with something, dont let them dangle by the lines), front wheel, front fender.

Measure the distance from the top of the fork tube to your triple, or clip-on, so you know where to replace it.

Now you remove the fork.

Loosen the upper triple clamp bolt (6mm). To get at this bolt, you will probably also have to loosen the clip-on and slide it out of the way a bit. Two hex bolts the clip-on in place, a 6mm and a 5mm (covered by plastic cap).
Here is a picture of the upper triple bolt:

Now loosen the two 6mm hex bolts on the lower triple clamp. These are the last two bolts holding the fork up, so have an assistant (a hot girl is ideal) hold the tube to keep it from dropping out.

The tube should slide right out. Take your small screwdriver and pry off the dust cap. If you did not buy new ones be careful not to damage them.

Slide the seal off of the fork tube. Now use your small screwdriver to remove the retaining clip. Start at one end and work your way around. Take care not to bend or break this clip if you are re-using it.
This picture shows the clip half out and half in... Notice the leaky oil that we hope to fix.

Now there is nothing holding the oil seals in. From here there are two paths: Completely disassemble the fork or fill it with oil and compress it to pop the seal. I chose the more simple, less damaging route.

Finish removing the fork cap. It will pop off with some force, so be ready for it. Now, use your cheap oil to fill the fork. Stuff as much oil in as it will hold. Then install the fork cap. Tighten it, but dont torque it off.

Here is where you will need to get creative. Find a wall, shelf, or anything sturdy to jack against. A chunk of wood against a car tire will work also. I put the socket back on the fork cap while compressing it, to prevent damage to the top.

Get your rig set up with the bottle jack, and put something under the fork to catch the oil that will seep out. (oil drain pan not pictured)

Compress the fork with your jack until you hear a little pop and oil seeps out. Back the jack off and examine your fork seal. One end of it should be close enough for you to pry it out with your small screwdriver. Work your way around the seal until you can grab it and slide it off. Be careful not to scratch your fork while doing this, or its trashed!

Once the seal is off, set it aside. Dont pitch it yet. (unless you have a seal driver).

Remove the fork cap and drain the oil. All of it. Pumping the inner tube will help speed up the process. Make sure to get as much out as possible.

Once you are sure all of the oil is out, take your new oil seal and apply a thin coat of oil to the inner surface (much like an oil filter O-ring). Making sure it is right-side-up (writing up), slide the seal down the inner tube and into place. If you have a seal driver, use it, or if not, place the old seal on top of the new seal and use a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet to tap it into place. Work your way around the seal, then pull the old seal up a bit and check your work. Be fairly gentle, so the new seal doesnt get damaged. You are done when the new seal is completely below the groove for the retaining clip.

Once the seal is seated, re-install the retaining clip. Double check that the ring seats completely in its groove. Once the clip is in place, install the dust cap. Again, use the seal driver or rubber mallet (no screwdriver this time) to tap it around the edge into place.

Now if you have a fork oil level tool, use it to fill the fork with the proper ammount of oil, or if you are using a ratio cup, measure the appropriate ammount (476cc) and pour it in. Pump the inner tube a couple of times. At this point, you should use a tape measure to slide down into the tube to measure the oil height. Remeber this measurement so you can get the second fork oil level equal. Install the fork cap, then install the fork in the triples, sliding it up so it is in the right place (per your measurements earlier) and tighten everything down.

After you finish the other side, re-install everything, and lower the bike, dont forget to torque the fork caps off.

Go ride and enjoy the few hundred dollars you saved!

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r...s-99-02-a.html

Really fork seals sound like they are a bitch to do, but to be honest yeh they are. The first time I changed for seals it took me almost a solid day, having done them again once since, I can do them in about 3 hours. Get a clymer or a haynes manual. Also make yourself a PVC tube installer, easiest and best tool for the job.

Bro, it's a judgement call... I have never replaced my own seals in almost 30 years of riding. For one, if you remove the forks, most dealerships will do it pretty cheap. I've paid as little as $50 forks out. I must admit that I like Derf's write up though...Second, it's just one of those jobs that I believe can go wrong pretty quick if you don't have the right tools, so I don't mess with it. Just me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps (Post 390202)

yea i guess your right ill probably just pull them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full Throttle (Post 390213)

yea i guess your right ill probably just pull them.

Well, do what you feel is best... I mean if Derf can replace his own seals, anybody can!!!:lol: I'd check around and see what they would charge you. Maybe even see if you can hang around and watch. It never hurts to watch someone that knows what they are doing do it before you try...:idk: I don't want to discourage you BUT I also don't want you to run out to the garage with a print of Derf's instructions and tear your bike apart.:lol: My time=$$$ so a full day vs a couple hours and >$100 doesn't sound too bad to me....:idk:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps (Post 390226)

Thats why I said get a clymers or haynes manual, those things are gods gift to oak tree mehanics. The pictures are crap for some stuff, but it does give you a step by step instruction with pictures and how to test for whats wrong. Prolly the best $20 you can spend on any vehicle

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps (Post 390202)

This. I do springs, fork oil, etc but I usually don't mess with the actual seals.

Forks come off REALLY easily on most bikes and dropping 'em off is really easy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Particle Man (Post 390294)

This. I do springs, fork oil, etc but I usually don't mess with the actual seals.

Forks come off REALLY easily on most bikes and dropping 'em off is really easy.

Yep!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Particle Man (Post 390294)

This. I do springs, fork oil, etc but I usually don't mess with the actual seals.

Forks come off REALLY easily on most bikes and dropping 'em off is really easy.

Idk dropping them off pretty tough. I mean i would have to put them in my car and drive all the way down to the shop and drop them off. Damn that just seems like more work than im in for right now lol. But i guess ill be doing that really soon.

So how do yall suggest i lift the bike? cause idk how im going to keep the bike lifted when i have to take the forks off.

I lift mine with an engine hoist, but in a pinch you can use straps to suspend it from rafters or something of that sort. You can always just support it by the oil pan, just make sure you dont crush itt

Sorry FT I am late but looks like the boys got you setup.

Forks are a BITCH to dick with. If you're short on $$, knowledge, and tools. I say choose the middle ground. Do like Amber L. says, pull them yourself and have them do the job. Just be sure to do these 3 things.

1. Replace both seals (R&L)
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...areback005.jpg

2. Replace all the bushings. They are cheap and it's one of those, "well you're in there" type of things. If you can see the copper, like the pic, they're worn out. Don't replace them and you'll start to wear out the forks themselves.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...areback004.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...areback003.jpg

3. Use a nice quality synthetic fork oil. Like a nice syn Ohlins fork oil.

Do these 3 things and trust me. You will be blown away how much better your bike will handle.

As far as supporting the bike... I agree. use a nice quality RATCHET style strap. Hoise from the rafters of a garage or shed. Support with a jack on the bottom of the motor. May want to use a piece of wood to help spread out the weight.

Regardless if you are doing the rebuild or the shop is.

Do you or the shop a favor. Before you dissassemble it all. Loosen the top cap on the forks first. Then put finger tight. If you don't and it's on there TIGHT, it's a bitch to loosen once the forks are off the bike.

Then you may or may not have to remove the fairings. Depends on the bikes and how easy it is for you to do so. I removed mine so I wouldn't have to worry about scratching anything... they were easy to pull.

Remove the front calipers and string or coat hanger them up.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ingTime021.jpg

Loose the pinch bolts on the "bolt" side of the axle which we also call the axle... leaving the "nut" side tight. Loosen the axle and once ready to remove, loose the "nut" side.

Remove the axle and front wheel
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ingTime018.jpg

Loosen the tripple pinch bolts on top and lower clamps. Slide the forks out
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ingTime021.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ingTime020.jpg

I then borrowed a bike jack so I could take apart the tripples... couldn't do that with my stlye front stand. You could do this as well if you do the hoist up meathod.

I wanted to check the bearings and grease them. However you need to know the torque or "fall away" spec for re-assemble. But I think well worth it. Another "While you're there" thing.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...reaseup002.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...reaseup006.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...reaseup011.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...reaseup017.jpg

Tripples back together and ready for forks
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...reaseup019.jpg

then once you have the forks back, slide in and reassemble.

EASY.

And for the record as always... if you were in town, we'd do the whole project... I've done a couple, not allot but a couple... and after doing the choppers I think I could do any... they SUCKED!! Needed a step ladder to pound in the seals... cause they were 10" over not just cause I'm short..fuckers!
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...alsnOil027.jpg

But I also used a PVC tool to make my own seal pounder. Out of some pvc, a bushing, and an adapter
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...alsnOil017.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...alsnOil018.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...alsnOil025.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...alsnOil026.jpg

Which I also have a 31 picture/2 page "how to" on as well. If you so wanted to look at it. I could link you.

Yea give me that link. But i think im probably going to pull them and take them to the shop.

[/QUOTE]2. Replace all the bushings. They are cheap and it's one of those, "well you're in there" type of things. If you can see the copper, like the pic, they're worn out. Don't replace them and you'll start to wear out the forks themselves.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...areback004.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...areback003.jpg[/QUOTE]

You didn't need to replace those. You look at the Teflon side of the bushings. You have an inner and outer bushing. If the Teflon (black/grey layer) is on the outside of the bushing, then it wont be on the inside of that bushing. Same goes for the other bushing. Inside has the Teflon and the outer does not. The Teflon area is what touches the forks. It's ok to see copper on the non-Teflon sides.

I always replace bushings when I do fork seals... you're already there...

Now if all you want/need to do is change fluid... different story.

So i got quoted on the dealer doing it and they said 150 for both. And thats if i pulled them myself. So im thinking im going to do it myself. About how long does it take? and im replacing everything. Fluid, Bushings and Seals.

What kind of special tools will i need? or do i need anything other than general things.

I found a 4-point 1500lb Hydraulic lift for $50 on craigslist i think thats one hell of a deal. I just emailed the guy i hope he still has the thing

$150 is good. Here they wanted $350 and thats me bringing them in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerscott (Post 391250)

$150 is good. Here they wanted $350 and thats me bringing them in.

might be good but im not wanting to spend that much.

With the right tools, I thought doing the seals and bushings on my forks was a piece of cake. Improvising a spring compressor (you may not need that) and a seal driver made it a pain in the ass. I finally bought the spring compressor, and I'll definitely be buying a real seal driver for next time. You might end up spending $50 on tools, but that's way cheaper than the shop, and you'll get a good idea of how your forks work while you're in there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerscott (Post 391250)

$150 is good. Here they wanted $350 and thats me bringing them in.

That's what I'm saying... I'm guessing that's including the seals, labor and fork oil Bro... Price that stuff out before you make a final decision. It's about $30 for seals and $10-20 for fork oil... Anyway, good luck if you do it yourself!!!

HEY!!! Call Ken Wheeler and see what he'd want. You're going to the Gap anyway and he could tune your suspension at the same time!

http://www.mountainhomepage.com/wheelers/

If you time it right, he could take your bike in and do your forks and set up in a couple hours, no problem! I don't think you'll find anyone that will bad mouth Ken.

Wheelers does cheap, fast and good work. It would prolly beworth your time to have him do it and set up the suspension at the same time

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps (Post 391255)

Truth! Price it all out. You probably have $75 in parts alone.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps (Post 391256)

That's a great idea!!! I forgot that's in his backyard.

Quote:

Originally Posted by derf (Post 391279)

Wheelers does cheap, fast and good work. It would prolly beworth your time to have him do it and set up the suspension at the same time

Shit ya. When I was there with WOS a few years back... he let us borrow a front end stand, we dropped the forks from a RC51 (blown seal) in his parking lot with tool kit tools, handed them off to Wheeler and came back in a few hours... left the bike in the parking lot with no front end.

Ya know i think im going to probably do that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full Throttle (Post 391380)

Ya know i think im going to probably do that.

Well, call him and see what he says. Ken is a great guy and I honestly wish he could be cloned!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps (Post 391385)

Well, call him and see what he says. Ken is a great guy and I honestly wish he could be cloned!!!

For sure!!! But that's why he's so awesome. Cause nobody like him. Kinda like me! :D

Thank god nobody else is like you

You're right derf. The world couldn't handle tt much cool.