Little Trick on tuning up your full floating rotors
 

Just in case you don't know, if you have full floaters you can take 2 washers a bolt and 1/2 nuts and throw them in your holes on your rotors to flex them around to remove gunk. I know this is a terrible description but hey i just did it to the TL and braking is much better when the rotor can move how it is supposed to. Ill post some example pics sometime this weekend if you dont understand what im saying.
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Makes no sense. Make threads when you have all the supporting pics. Don't make us wait.

Okay so I screw the brake discs into the caliper?
brb, doing that.

:lol:

let me know how much HP that adds... I was think'n 5-6... but maybe if I use titanium bolts I could get 20... :idk:

Hard as fuck to explain ill just post pics on how to, but not right now im not going out in my boxers in 50 degree weather just for you guys
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sounds like something I could do easily with some 400 grit sandpaper and a front stand.

Seriously. All the time with no pics. This is an insanely bad description of how to do anything.

Whats a 1/2 nut? Is it like "I busted a nut but didn't pull out but half way? :whistle:

:lol:

Another worthless thread.

What he is saying is that full floating rotors are designed to float in their carriers and that they get brake dust and road grime packed in their and cause them to freeze up...I have personally never liked full floaters cause they do require maintenance and they are noisy. When I have used them in racing applications I clean them while I am cleaning the calipers with Brake contact cleaner and a tooth brush. Most street bikes are semi-floaters and this won't really apply...:twfix:

I understand now. Floaters are weird. I knew a girl that upgraded to full-floating rotors on her 1st gen R1. I was like "your rotors are loose", haha.

What's the benefit from full-floaters anyway?

Floaters don't go away when you flush.... :idk:

:twfix:Yeah baby!

Floating rotors cancel out alot of the centrifugal forces of the front wheel. When attached solidly they (rotors) lose contact slightly with the pads as the wheel spins and twists. The wheel is torquing around the rotor inside the caliper. Floaters are designed to stay flush with the pads inside the calipers allowing for maximum friction.

Wouldn't there be less friction between the pads and the rotors giving you better acceleration and top end?

Not necessarily...I mean first of all if you keep your caliper pistons free of gunk they release completely after you let off the brake and second of all the free floating rotor will walk slightly in its carriers making them more likely to drag or contact a on a pad as you roll the wheel.

I think the only real reason is better more efficent braking.

If you want straight away speed and better handling the way to go is lighter rotors and wheels too if you can. Another parasitic loss to straightaway speed is with conventional wheel bearings. Most pros use ceramic coated and really slick wheel bearings to cut down friction...

Thank you smiley i was feeling like a retard for not being able to explain it
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That's cause you are a retard! J/K! LOL!:sorry:

Smiley's old. He should know how to explain things well (and he did). Ant?...not so much.

There are old pilots and bold pilots, but very few old, bold pilots...

Couldn't have picked a better time to drop that line.

Thank god for Smileyman.

Aye! Thank God cause he would be the only reason I am still here!:whistle:

Well, I knew why I want them to float... but what the hell was he talking about with a 1/2 nut? And, what exactly IS a 1/2 nut...

??

Scrat would know!

:rofl:

It wasn't me this time......:whistle:

hey,wasn't there something about heat dissipation? Good job explaining that SM! I need to clean mine out actually. Oh and I'd imagine he's talking about a half inch nut and bolt. Of course,I don't know if he means a 5/16 bolt and nut which typically uses an 1/2" wrench or if he means an 1/2" bolt and nut which uses a 5/8" wrench....blah,blah,blah.....

bolt+washer through one of the holes around the rotor ad washer and 2 nuts on the other side tighten nuts and move the rotor around while nuts are tight. BAM you feel your rotor able to move how it is supposed to. Now move on to the next hole.
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:dvrofl:

that actually made sense to me the first time.

:idk:

just wonderin-do all bikes have floating rear calipers? never paid attn to the gsxr, but the honda caliper on my kawi is a floater.

same idea, but reverse tech because the rear rotor is much smaller than the front?

when my kawi was stock, the front rotors were the same size as the rear, so that meant slightly small front rotors compared to todays sportbikes, and way a large rear. all were solid, drilled rotors


another braking question-they sell solid aftermarket rotors as well as full floating for the front...is one better suited to certain purposes (drag racing, street, circuit racing)more than the other?

you can get into wave, slotted, drilled, or a combo of each if you want too

full floaters are generally the best for general performance, but some people do not like them because they can rattle and also be noisy as hell. And no not all bikes have floating rears Example mine doesnt, floaters in the front solid in the rear, but mine is also a dinosaur
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They are also know as a "jam nut". They are the same wrench size & same thread pitch but only thinner.

Jeff
"the machinist"

I've never seen a bike with a floating rear rotor.

i said floating rear caliper, just to make sure theres no confusion

wooooops
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The chop has one...

No shit.

its also damn near the same size as the front right?

sportbike rears are way tiny-ive seen tiny floating rotors on dargbikes in the front, but the point i was gettin at was is the purpose of the floating rear caliper to get some of the same effects, without using a floating rotor. because most bikes rear rotors are pretty universal throughout the series. 600/750/100 suz are same, honda 600/929/954 are same, etc. calipers arent always the same tho

Yep and yeah not much smaller than the front
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ld/Day6038.jpg

All modern brakes float, either the rotor, caliper or both.Full floaters just have the ability to recover from heat warping better by moving within the calipers. I used to race an old RD350 that had no floating anything, solid caliper mounting-solid disc. At the end of the straights the first pull on the brake lever came back to the bar every time. After you got used to it, no problem but at first it was a little disconcerting. I would just use the first brake marker as the the Lever Slack marker and then when I really needed the brakes an instant later they were there. But there was always that thought...
Hot rotors warp and knock the pads back into the calipers while you are on the straights and floaters allow the pads to stay closer to the discs. I still prefer them to work immediately, thank you.

The caliper only needs to float if it does not have opposing pistons. If all the pistons are on the same side the caliper has to float in order to keep the caliper centered so you use both pads. Lots of rear brakes only have one or two pistons on the same side and need to have a floating caliper. If they did not have floating calipers as the pads wears the caliper would no longer be centered on the rotor.

Calipers with opposing pistons (2,4 or 6 piston calipers all radial mounted) calipers. Do not need to float because the pistons move on both sides of the rotor and keep the pads in contact by moving the pistons.

Rotors float for a different reason and do not move enough float(or play) to keep a non opposing caliper centered. They float so that the brakes still work well even when they slightly loose shape side to side caused by heat during hard braking. Another reason they float is to increase pad contact through better alignment. They are also less affected by rim deflection during cornering.

theres the answers i wanted :dthumb: