Battery Question & Other Maintainence Stuff
 

I've been making a list of maintainence things to do to my bike, especially with the upcoming rally. Things like changing the spark plugs, changing fluids, bleeding the brakes (the pads still look really good), replacing the air filter (it's due), oil change (due now), etc. I've recently replaced my fork seals and put in a heavier fork oil (she feels so much better!).

I was thinking, damn...my baby's turning 6 this year and she still has the original battery. Granted she only has about 22,000 miles on her (give or take...I bought her in '05 with only 1,100 and I didn't ride her that much the first year or so I had her) and I use her mainly for commuting.

The only time I've ever have any issues with her starting is when it's extremely cold (low 20's) and she won't start. But as soon as it warms up a bit, she'll turn over pretty easy. I also have only charged it once and that was the first year I had her. I turned the key too far and left the lights on without realizing it. She still starts easy, no problems.

But still, the battery is 6 years old. Should I be looking at getting another battery? What's the average lifespan of a motorcycle battery?

Also, what are some other (somewhat simple) things I should put on my list to possibly check, change, or replace? Please keep in mind when it comes to mechanics I'm the typical female. It's not that I can't learn how, it's that I can't get my brain and my hands to work in some sort of mechanical harmony. :lol: I can read and "know" how to do something, but have problems doing it and doing it right. :(

I don't trust the local Zuk shop to do anything. I watched their "mechanics" take over an hour to change a freakin' back tire a couple of years ago. No way am I going to trust them with anything that's just as simple or even more complex to work on my bike. Most of the stuff that gets done, I do it by myself, usually with the help of a friend who's not much more knowledgable about bikes than I am.

Any help or suggestions is mucho appreciated! :D

check your chain and sprockets

tires.

and yes, buy a new battery.

The chain is fairly new. I replaced it about 3-4,000 miles or so. The rear sprocket still looks really good...not much wear at all. The last time I checked the front (which I replaced the chain), it was still good too. I'll check the sprockets good again about a month before the rally. Thanks for reminding me!

New tires are on their way. :rockwoot:

I've already got the battery on my list. I'm just checking to make sure it needs to be there. ;)

after 6 years, on an origional battery, yeah. better to buy another one then get stuck somewhere

6 years on a battery is good. My futura eats batteries for breakfast (but its got a shitty charging system)

Not sure about the maintenance interval but a valve check may soon be in order too. Sound slike you got most of the other stuff covered and a +1 on the chain and sprockets. if yo ucan find someone with a chain press so yo udont have to have a shop charge you an arm and a leg for it.

Tom

That battery is on borrowed time. 5 years is usually the lifespan of a battery. I'd have one on standby.

i got 9 years out of the battery on my accord and if it didnt sit for a few days when it was brutally cold it may still be going :)

tom

I've never gotten more than 5 out of any battery.

I havent been as lucky with bikes, of course with the TL and futura the battery has to work to turn over the bigger twins.

Tom

Where do you live? Im in PA...winter temps here are tough on car batteries.

I am in NY living on LI. Winters arent THAT bad here but it does get cold for prolonged periods. just dont get all the snow they get upstate.

tom

My VTX turned 7 yo this Jan and it still has the original battery, but that's the best I've ever had one last too. It's never been run down and this past Nov and Dec is the longest I've ever gone without riding so it's stayed charged all these years. That being said, I'd have one on standby Stephanie, because you've said yours has been sluggish turning over sometimes in the cold. It's nearly done most likely.

Do find out the valve adjusment interval and if one's coming up. Other than that, you're pretty well covered when your tires come in.

Do you keep your battery on the tender durring down time?

Tom

That helps considerably. This last year and a half, I was between two places and one of them didn't have an outlet to plug the Battery Tender in, so my KTM's battery went tits-up even though it's barely two years old.

this year the battery (only a yr old) started to konk out on the priller in th ecold since I used the bike infrequently. Since then the battery has been in the basement on the tender. I will attatch a pigtail connecotr after we get into the house. Righ tnow the bike is stored outside under a carport so its somewhat exposed to the elemnts.

Tom

Is the valve check something I have to take it to a shop for?

Where do you guys usually buy your batteries? Any good places online?

Thanks for the help! :D

if youre not THAT mechanically inclined I would take it to the shop. I have them do it on my futura becasue its a PITA but my TL like your SV is rather easy to work on/access the valves.

I forgot where I ordered my battery from fo rthe futura i also have used the Neverstart ones from wallyworld.

Tom

A battery is $90 locally. Surely I can find it cheaper elsewehere.

Tom, I'll have to see where other Zuk dealerships are nearby or other shops that are street bike specific. I really don't trust the local one to do the job right and not charge out the ass for possibly fucking it up. Even without my small personal experience with them, I've heard other stories about their shitty service.

I was going to suggest getting the valves done, but I don't think that is something you want to attempt yourself. Maybe get a friend to help that knows what they are doing. Not sure I would trust the dealer either... they did my husband's bike he had a few years back. Did a good job on the valves, but put a big ole scuff on his frame where they pulled the carbs out.

Do you have a Batteries Plus around you? New batt for my SV was like $40 there last year.

And the recomended interval for valve clearance check is 15K or every 2 years.... so yeah, I'd say you're due.
And it's only 19 steps in my service manual :whistle:

There's a Batteries Plus about an hour away from me. A little over $6 in the bike and I could get it! They have one for my bike too! :D

Valve check. I'm working on looking for a place I can trust to do it. That's the hard part.

Actually the cold temps aren't that bad on the battery itself. its the cold motor and cold oil that pushes the batteries CCA limit. The motor is harder to start in the cold.

In reality the 100 degree temps are harder on batteries.

Glad you found a deal.

Now you could road trip up to MI and visit Gas Man. Sure he'd be happy to help with the valves

I'm always willing to help...

bring your service manual though.

I have one for both bikes, which is good as I'll have to do valve checks on both bikes this year...

Yes Tommy, my starter button is my battery tender :D Seriously, no, i haven't ever had it on a tender or had to charge it. This past fall I had 2 back to back sinus infections and we had our coldest winter in years so that's why I didn't ride for 2 months. Heck, it got down in the teens a few times ;) It's back to 60's and 70's now :whistle: It's usually not cold long enough to worry about the battery running low and not riding around here. :sorry: ;)

Technicalities, brother. I know its the cold oil and shit. But those are results of....cold temps.

I didn't think a battery for a bike would be hard to find where you didn't get ass raped in the process!

Around town the cheapest I can find it is 83.95 and it has to be ordered. The Batteries Plus place Cutty suggested has one for 60 and it's going to take me about 6-7 bucks in gas to get there and back. And not one of the places has a brand name that a couple of people have suggested.

Annually: Brake Fluid, Battery Electrolyte (non-maintenance-free types),
Every other year: Coolant change, Complete empty/refill of gas tank (get the water/crud out), Steering Head Bearing Clean/Lubricate, Fork Oil/Fluid
On Mileage: Oil AND filter, Fuel Filters every 12-24K (closer to 12K doesn't hurt)
On Condition: Tires, Brakes, and Chain/Sprocket sets, Cables (throttle and if applicable clutch)

RE: Brake pads - if there's less than a 'dime' (i.e. depth of material) worth of pad left, change them IMMEDIATELY.

YMMV... :shrug:

Don't buy a discount battery stick with the original brand.

http://www.tiresunlimited.com/yuasa_batteries.htm

$72 and change.

Thanks! :dthumb:

I've had good luck finding quality batteries at cheap prices at Batteries Plus... Not sure if it was posted cause I didn't read the thread so...

Your welcome I have ordered batterys and tires from them and had them in a few days. I also have never been spamed by them. Most of the other places now send me 3 or more emails a day. I will not buy from anyone that sends me more than a monthly news letter. If I wanted spam in my email I'd sign up for a porn at least then I'd enjoy it.

I would agree. I've only had to change one battery, but I know others who have had problems with the discount batteries.

I didnt do too bad with the walmart batteries, hell [I] even got a freebie when my rectifier killed one of them in less than 6 months. Got 2 full seasons outof one on my track bike and thats with it stored outside in the winter.

I went with a slightly bigger one for the priller and one that more cca's just to make sure it starts in the cooler weather.

Tom

That is great. I just wouldn't take my chance on one. Not saying the brand name ones can't have problems either, just less.

Let me guess, your rectifier was on a Honda?

Nope an aprilia futura, damn thing eats voltage regulators and batteries. the guys on apriliaforum prety much have it sorted out. Aftermarket regulator and a slightly bigger battery and so far so good.

Tom

Oh. OK. I don't know much about Aprilias. I just knew that Honda, the older CBR had rectifier problems.

I had heard that too, I am not sure if the other rotax aprilias have these problems but the futuras are notorious. At least there are cheap easy mods to fix it if need be.

Tom

Tommy be sure to check all your connections most of the time when a reg/rec goes bad there is some heat involved and the plugs get melted then they fit looser and that makes the whole thing start over again.

Also consider a samll fan on the heat sink and make sure its mounted to a alumium back plate with the heat transfer paste. You can get the heat transfer paste at any electrical parts store I think Radio Shack even sells it.

Also consider one with a larger heatsink all reg/rec are is 3 diodes in a triangle you can use one from a different maker with out any problems.

the prillers are notorious for melting the connectors. There is a wiring mod you can to to alleviate that, also a guy on the board makes regulators for the bike and with his you dont need to do that, but does say I should solder the connectors. It is mounted to a large aluminum plate on the side of the bike as well.

Tom

You will do yourself a great mis-service if you don't get a AGM battery over a standard liquid acid battery. They are more resiliant and hardy.

AGM battery? :scratch:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absorbe..._mat_.28AGM.29

;)

Describe a 'hardy' battery, please.

Manly, beast of a battery, with a beard and tatoos.

JC

A battery that can take a beating and still keep on being functional. They are harder to drain dead, and more resistant to failure and plate welding.

I've gotta get one of these!

I carry a battery jump box, so if yours dies while riding with me I can start you back up unless it's completely fucked.

Thanks. Until i get a job, buying a battery right now is the least of my worries, especially since the one I have, although it's old, hasn't shown any signs of problems.