Your regulator/rectifier burn out?
 

Anyone ever try an aftermarket regulator/rectifier, instead of a new OEM one? There's a company called Electrosport and they claim they build them "better" than OEM.

Honda 929?

I have a 1996 CBR600 F3 that had a bad R/R. I found out a lot of the F2/F3 guys where replacing their R/R with 2005+ GSXR600/750 R/Rs. I have a 05 GSXR750 one mine and it works great. Maybe a GSXR1000 will work for yours if a 600/750 won't. Don't get 2004 or earlier. Talked to my bike mechanic who worked for Suzuki as a cheif mechanic. He told me the 2004 or earlier R/Rs from Suzuki were junk.

I got mine for $50 from ebay.

Yes it's a Honda 929, and yeah I'd normally just buy a used one off Ebay, but obviously being "used" there's a 50/50 chance of getting a dud, so I figure I'll try one of these new Electrosports, they are $110

I have heard mix reviews of aftermarket R/Rs. I don't know any company specifics or if Electrosports was even considered when people mentioned them. Most said they weren't worth it and did worse than factory. Again that company can be different.

If it works out for ya then awesome and let us know.

do the GSXR R/R mod, its cheaper and much more worthwhile. test your stator too, I know someone here that had his stator go bad too.

any details?

Test your Stator/Rotor assembly - the (usually yellow) wires, when metered between two of the leads should show some level of AC Voltage (check your repair manual for details on how much and precisely how to at what RPM). There are so many aftermarket R/Rs - I've purchased and used EMGO (generic replacement) on my old EX500 - it ran fine. YMMV...

Just in case you want to understand what's happening on the inside - highly simplified:

http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/bridgerectifier.gif

This is more likely the case with your bike - a three phase AC stator/rotor combination, and a three phase bridge rectifier:

http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/3-...er-circuit.jpg

:idk:

You mean a resistance test? The resistance is normal across the yellow wires.

No - you should also have a voltage reading test. Normally, there should be a reading across any two of "N" wires in a rotor/stator alternator setup (i.e. you're reading a two phase delta - like how 240V is generated out of 120V residential service delivery - two phases in 180 degree opposition generate the voltage delta).

With the engine running?