1975 Kawasaki Triple

[Phenix_Rider]

*sigh* All ready to start it today, and we got carb issues. Took all three carbs off, cleaned them out really well, got all the varnish out of the tank, poured in new fuel, and it poured right out the left two carbs and down the engine. Looking for new float needle and seats now...

['73 H1 Triple]

Check you floats to make sure they do float ( use gas to check, not water)

Also, some of the rebuild kits on ebay are JUNK. Research the triple forum for good kits.

['73 H1 Triple]

Thinking about this overnight, you probably only need to clean the carbs well and replace the gaskets ( if they tear)

To clean the carbs, use the berkebile gum cutter. Best stuff I've ever used


If you need to purchase parts that aren't available at the dealer, I would use either Jessbikes on Ebay or MidAtlantic Cycle. Both are "good" members of the triple forum. I use Jess Bikes for most everything myself.

Key will be mailed late this morning.

Jeff

[Phenix_Rider]

Originally Posted by '73 H1 Triple

Check you floats to make sure they do float ( use gas to check, not water)

Also, some of the rebuild kits on ebay are JUNK. Research the triple forum for good kits.

We started with cleaning them- before we put fuel in the tank. After it started pouring out, we adjusted the floats where the needle rests, and checked with a mityvac. The right side is fine, the left is holding fuel after adjustment, but the center is shot. He's calling around today for parts.

['73 H1 Triple]

Originally Posted by Phenix_Rider

We started with cleaning them- before we put fuel in the tank. After it started pouring out, we adjusted the floats where the needle rests, and checked with a mityvac. The right side is fine, the left is holding fuel after adjustment, but the center is shot. He's calling around today for parts.

I'm driving over to Jess' house tomorrow. Want me to check if he have anything you need? I'll PM you Jess' email and you can contact him yourself if you want.

Jess is a stand up guy and doesn't sell junk. If something turns out not to be good, it's not a problem returning it.

Jeff

['73 H1 Triple]

Originally Posted by Phenix_Rider

We started with cleaning them- before we put fuel in the tank. After it started pouring out, we adjusted the floats where the needle rests, and checked with a mityvac. The right side is fine, the left is holding fuel after adjustment, but the center is shot. He's calling around today for parts.

One other thing to check --- the petcock.

Make sure it's in the "ON" position and not in the "prime" position. The prime position will make the carbs overflow.

[Phenix_Rider]

Well, it runs- sorta. On one and a half cylinders. The left side is firing fine, the center is flaky, and the right not at all. Got the overflow problem fixed though- Dad got the only float needle and seat in 60 miles. Still have a slow leak from a pinhole in the right fuel line. Found a weird crystal formation on it today- fuel must have atomized coming out the hole and frozen. Definitely have spark on all three, so that's a good thing. Did a compression test too- in the range of 135-150 all three.

Originally Posted by '73 H1 Triple

One other thing to check --- the petcock.

Make sure it's in the "ON" position and not in the "prime" position. The prime position will make the carbs overflow.

Hmmm.... I'll bet that's part of it. I never really looked- just figured it needed new seals. Should only flow in "ON" when it has engine vacuum right? Well, we just found the tube broke where it goes up and around under the tank

You sir, are a fine human being

['73 H1 Triple]

STOP-- Do NOT run the bike until this has been checked

Sitting on the bike, under the right side side cover is the two stoke oil injection tank. There is a screen which is in the bottom of the screw on cap.

This ALWAYS clogs up if a bike sits too long. This will not only stop oil flow into the cylinders, it will also end up destroying the crankshaft bearings. ( they are fed oil too )

Take the right side cover off ( where the tach cable goes in ) and gently loosen the main feed line. If you have a steady, constant flow it should be ok. If not, the screen will have to be cleaned.

[Phenix_Rider]

Originally Posted by '73 H1 Triple

STOP-- Do NOT run the bike until this has been checked

Sitting on the bike, under the right side side cover is the two stoke oil injection tank. There is a screen which is in the bottom of the screw on cap.

This ALWAYS clogs up if a bike sits too long. This will not only stop oil flow into the cylinders, it will also end up destroying the crankshaft bearings. ( they are fed oil too )

Take the right side cover off ( where the tach cable goes in ) and gently loosen the main feed line. If you have a steady, constant flow it should be ok. If not, the screen will have to be cleaned.

It's getting oil. In fact, oil is spraying all over the rim and tire from the left side exhaust. When the center fires, it puffs smoke. The thing smokes so much, the shop filled up with smoke from running it 5 minutes. I've been wondering if we can dial it down a bit, but right now we're trying to get it firing on all cylinders.

We need to take that right engine cover off to check the tach too. It seems really sluggish (as in it takes a full minute to respond). Tried spraying some lube down the cable. I wonder if the spring in the gauge is mushy.

['73 H1 Triple]

Originally Posted by Phenix_Rider

It's getting oil. In fact, oil is spraying all over the rim and tire from the left side exhaust. When the center fires, it puffs smoke. The thing smokes so much, the shop filled up with smoke from running it 5 minutes. I've been wondering if we can dial it down a bit, but right now we're trying to get it firing on all cylinders.

We need to take that right engine cover off to check the tach too. It seems really sluggish (as in it takes a full minute to respond). Tried spraying some lube down the cable. I wonder if the spring in the gauge is mushy.

The "spraying" oil may be oil left in the cylinder from when it was parked. Look for oil movement in the oil lines too. Once it's running on all three, a few runs thru the gears will clean it out. Then we'll see about the adjustment on the oil pump.

You can move the carbs to different cyclinders to see if that's your problem. Also, did you put brand new plugs in? Since you're having a problem with the right cylinder, check the spark plug cap to make sure it's connected to the spark plug wire.

When you remove the cover, be extra nice to the rubber grommet as they are not available from Kawasaki any more and repro ones run $15+

Remove the tach cable, start the engine and see if the tach drive spins. If it does NOT, you have a drive problem with the oil pump. Do not run it as the main bearings will not get oil.