New chain and sprockets

[Kerry_129]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

so why blather on about $200 sprockets and $200+ chains?

Blather? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black!
Who said anything about $200 chains & sprockets?

I'm simply expressing my opinion that sticking with a quality name-brand chain, which can be had for <$100 vs. the cheapest one available might be wise - though as I said, it's likely fine for the application. Not suggesting the SV is gonna snap it in two either, simply that there may be a greater chance for material defect/failure with an el-cheapo.

As far as 'I know from experience that the fronts are almost never wore out of spec.'....

I'm curious - what specification/dimension are you referring to, and how exactly are you claiming to be able to measure it with a pair of calipers? The chain itself, easy - sprocket tooth profile, not so much...

I agree that the front will wear much slower than the rear typically, and you can get away with not swapping it - but it WILL shorten the life of the chain to some degree, because there WILL be some tooth wear, even if it isn't obvious. I'm just saying, why skimp $20 & not do it right?

Originally Posted by Cutty72

I don't necessarily need the Joe cool racer boy stuff, just something that's gonna last.

My best advice - get a decent chain (which a bargain-basement one may or may not be), and replace BOTH sprockets. Oh - and it's safest to stick with a rivet-style master link, and align the rear wheel/sprocket w/ a gauge or the string method (don't trust the swingarm marks).

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Homeslice

Titatium teeth? How much did it cost?

An ASSLOAD!!!

[Kerry_129]

http://sidewindersprockets.com/titan...sprockets.html

Ouch. - it better last!

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Kerry_129

Blather? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black!
Who said anything about $200 chains & sprockets?

I'm simply expressing my opinion that sticking with a quality name-brand chain, which can be had for <$100 vs. the cheapest one available might be wise - though as I said, it's likely fine for the application. Not suggesting the SV is gonna snap it in two either, simply that there may be a greater chance for material defect/failure with an el-cheapo.

As far as 'I know from experience that the fronts are almost never wore out of spec.'....

I'm curious - what specification/dimension are you referring to, and how exactly are you claiming to be able to measure it with a pair of calipers? The chain itself, easy - sprocket tooth profile, not so much...

I agree that the front will wear much slower than the rear typically, and you can get away with not swapping it - but it WILL shorten the life of the chain to some degree, because there WILL be some tooth wear, even if it isn't obvious. I'm just saying, why skimp $20 & not do it right?



My best advice - get a decent chain (which a bargain-basement one may or may not be), and replace BOTH sprockets. Oh - and it's safest to stick with a rivet-style master link, and align the rear wheel/sprocket w/ a gauge or the string method (don't trust the swingarm marks).

First, what's my race got to do with it?

Second, I do believe that there is a specific distance between the teeth on a sprocket and the width of the sprocket itself. You can also "eyeball" the play of the links in the sprocket itself...um kinda like you can tell if you need a rear sprocket...it is the same thing, you know....

Besides, you are ASSuming that the chain I linked is junk just because A. it's inexpensive and B. it's not a name brand and C. it's made in China... Oh no a chain made in China, no way. I bet none of the name brand chains are made in China. The chain has a 8200 lb tensile strength, plenty for a SV.

At any rate, I posted a RK chain with a chain alignment tool for $80... Again, the sprockets are steel which will last as long as the stock ones, no problem.

[Particle Man]

I'm in the "replace both sprockets" group as well. If I'm doing a chain I figure I might as well do it all. It also gives me the chance to see if stuff is moving that shouldn't in the front.

[Kerry_129]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

First, what's my race got to do with it?

You ain't right.

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

Second, I do believe that there is a specific distance between the teeth on a sprocket and the width of the sprocket itself. You can also "eyeball" the play of the links in the sprocket itself...um kinda like you can tell if you need a rear sprocket...it is the same thing, you know....

There is - #50 chain is .625" pitch (pin-to-pin distance).
But the wear point is toward the drive-face of the tooth, and not something you can simply measure with calipers. You're right that heavy wear and/or play between the roller & tooth is easy to see - once it's badly worn and pretty obvious. What I'm saying is that even if it looks/feels 'fine', it will still be worn a bit and that wear will accelerate the chain wear due to the elongated pitch between teeth (I believe due to the 'rollers' rotating a bit more as they engage under load rather than seating into the circular tooth 'roots' with minimal rotation).
How much & at what point will it 'use up' $20 worth of chain-life? Dunno, but I think best-practice is just to do it right & swap the damn thing!

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

Besides, you are ASSuming that the chain I linked is junk just because A. it's inexpensive and B. it's not a name brand and C. it's made in China... Oh no a chain made in China, no way. I bet none of the name brand chains are made in China. The chain has a 8200 lb tensile strength, plenty for a SV.

Actually, what I wrote was:
I agree on not skimping on the chain - though that $45 one is probably just fine for street/commuter-duty & a great deal if it's up-to-snuff. But wearing out a bit quicker is one thing, breaking a link is another. In my mind, it's somewhat of an unknown as to the actual quality (material/heat-treating - and I'm guessing it's made in China), and given the potential consequences of slinging a chain I'll stick with a top-notch established mfg. vs. saving ~$50 over 10~20k miles.

If I were considering buying a $5000 Hyosung vs. say, a $10,000 Suzuki - would the same ASSumptions regarding the possibility of lower quality/materials/lifespan/failure-rate not be valid? How 'bout a HarborFreight socket wrench vs. a Snap-On?

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Kerry_129

You ain't right.



There is - #50 chain is .625" pitch (pin-to-pin distance).
But the wear point is toward the drive-face of the tooth, and not something you can simply measure with calipers. You're right that heavy wear and/or play between the roller & tooth is easy to see - once it's badly worn and pretty obvious. What I'm saying is that even if it looks/feels 'fine', it will still be worn a bit and that wear will accelerate the chain wear due to the elongated pitch between teeth (I believe due to the 'rollers' rotating a bit more as they engage under load rather than seating into the circular tooth 'roots' with minimal rotation).
How much & at what point will it 'use up' $20 worth of chain-life? Dunno, but I think best-practice is just to do it right & swap the damn thing!



Actually, what I wrote was:
I agree on not skimping on the chain - though that $45 one is probably just fine for street/commuter-duty & a great deal if it's up-to-snuff. But wearing out a bit quicker is one thing, breaking a link is another. In my mind, it's somewhat of an unknown as to the actual quality (material/heat-treating - and I'm guessing it's made in China), and given the potential consequences of slinging a chain I'll stick with a top-notch established mfg. vs. saving ~$50 over 10~20k miles.

If I were considering buying a $5000 Hyosung vs. say, a $10,000 Suzuki - would the same ASSumptions regarding the possibility of lower quality/materials/lifespan/failure-rate not be valid? How 'bout a HarborFreight socket wrench vs. a Snap-On?

Ah I love a good argument...

Okay, used the example of a HF socket wrench vs a Snap-on correct? I agree that the Snap on should be a better tool BUT is it a $75- $10 quality increase? Did you know that the largest cc bike made could operate on a 4000 lb chain?

[No Worries]

I like Esjot sprockets: http://www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/esjotfront.cfm Made in Germany. And of course, DID chain. DID makes O-ring chain in 630 for my 80HP Suzuki. Talk about overkill. But I did get 55K miles on the OEM.

[Particle Man]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

Ah I love a good argument...

Okay, used the example of a HF socket wrench vs a Snap-on correct? I agree that the Snap on should be a better tool BUT is it a $75- $10 quality increase?

It may be - I've used el-cheapo HF tools instead of more expensive stuff once and did more damage to what I was working on than the difference in cost between the cheap tool and the more expensive. It's all relative.

[OneSickPsycho]

Originally Posted by Particle Man

It may be - I've used el-cheapo HF tools instead of more expensive stuff once and did more damage to what I was working on than the difference in cost between the cheap tool and the more expensive. It's all relative.

Depends on the tool. Hand tools, for the most part I'd avoid HF stuff and get something decent like Craftsman... Bigger items, like jacks and shit like that... HF all the way.