New chain and sprockets - Page 4

Amber Lamps · 01-14-2011, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneSickPsycho

Depends on the tool. Hand tools, for the most part I'd avoid HF stuff and get something decent like Craftsman... Bigger items, like jacks and shit like that... HF all the way.

Yea, it's a tough call... I've gotten some really good stuff from HF and I've gotten some craptastic tools from Sears-Robo grips come to mind IMMEDIATELY!!!

I have to admit that the ONLY tools that I've gotten that I haven't had any problems with were Snap-On but $2-300 for a wrench set is a bit much!

The socket wrench example calls to mind the fact that I basically had to return my socket wrench to Sears every month or so when I was using it every day for work. Sure they have a lifetime warranty but guess what? So does Harbor Freight, I've returned tools there several times without any hassle.

Amber Lamps · 01-14-2011, 01:21 PM

To the "replace both sprockets" crowd I say this, I replace my chain every year or so anyway because I want it to look good.

I'm not trying to set any chain mileage records. I normally change the front every two rears and it has worked fine for me so far. I've NEVER broken a chain nor have I EVER seen a chain break in 30 years of riding. The only chain related problems I've seen were due to improper clip on link installation, which is why I always use the rivet style link. Even with that being said, the clip link failures were ALWAYS due to vise grip installs/mis-aligned chains. If they had used a chain press and aligned the chain, I doubt that there would have been problems.

Homeslice · 01-14-2011, 01:46 PM

Sprockets are friggin cheap anyway, I don't know why anyone wouldn't replace them. Typically $20-25 for the front, $60 for the rear. Plus they are selling them as a kit with the chain more often these days, for under $200.

Hydrant · 01-14-2011, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

To the "replace both sprockets" crowd I say this, I replace my chain every year or so anyway because I want it to look good.

I'm not trying to set any chain mileage records. I normally change the front every two rears and it has worked fine for me so far. I've NEVER broken a chain nor have I EVER seen a chain break in 30 years of riding. The only chain related problems I've seen were due to improper clip on link installation, which is why I always use the rivet style link. Even with that being said, the clip link failures were ALWAYS due to vise grip installs/mis-aligned chains. If they had used a chain press and aligned the chain, I doubt that there would have been problems.

That is the stock chain off the TLR with about 10k miles on it. Adjusted correctly, lubed all the time. I wasn't hammering it, just cruising at 50 mph. It let go right behind the master link.

Its pretty mangled because it got caught in the swingarm and cush locking the rear tire.

Particle Man · 01-14-2011, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneSickPsycho

Depends on the tool. Hand tools, for the most part I'd avoid HF stuff and get something decent like Craftsman... Bigger items, like jacks and shit like that... HF all the way.

if I'm crawling under a car or something I want the jack to work... something about the possibility of having a car land on me makes me cautious

OneSickPsycho · 01-14-2011, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Particle Man

if I'm crawling under a car or something I want the jack to work... something about the possibility of having a car land on me makes me cautious

Jackstands.... I don't get under a vehicle without them.

Particle Man · 01-14-2011, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneSickPsycho

Jackstands.... I don't get under a vehicle without them.

I don't buy those from HF either

Kerry_129 · 01-14-2011, 07:40 PM

Very valid point on the diminishing rate of return the more you spend - the continued tool analogy is a good one, and maybe that $80 RK is the 'Craftsman' chain.

I can also see a 2-1 front/rear swap being fine, especially if you're not running the chain to the ragged edge (I don't either, and generally swap it once I start to see any kinking). Not like a little faster (maybe negligible) rate-of-wear is going to be a catastrophe, especially on a small/lightly-ridden street bike. I guess my mindset is just that since there's always SOME wear, it should be changed always (and I've read/heard that point several times, I think mostly from chain/sprocket mfgs - go figure

).
I did know a guy years ago who went down pretty hard due to a nearly-new snapped chain, though I wasn't with him at the time - supposedly it wasn't at the master-link & the pin just shattered. Never had a problem with one myself - but I do consider it a 'critical component' since a failure could potentially hurt/kill you & probably would give zero warning & why I advised to be a bit paranoid of the least-expensive ones out there.

Lon - I'm not so fond of 'arguing', but I like a good discussion/debate too as long as they stay friendly. Sorry if I sometimes come off as arrogant or know-it-all in expressing my opinions in writing, I don't mean to & I don't think that my opinions/views are the only 'right' ones (hardly!).

Amber Lamps · 01-14-2011, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hydrant

That is the stock chain off the TLR with about 10k miles on it. Adjusted correctly, lubed all the time. I wasn't hammering it, just cruising at 50 mph. It let go right behind the master link.

Its pretty mangled because it got caught in the swingarm and cush locking the rear tire.

What's your point? I still have never seen a chain break nor have I had one break on me. You say that it was maintained and stock...so what's that got to do with anything after market? That's most likely a DID chain, I've read that a lot of stock chains are only 6-7000 lbs tensile. Also, maybe the chain was worn out/overstretched? Maybe it was too tight? Maybe you used a pressure washer to clean your bike and water got pushed past the seal? Maybe stock chains are continuous link, made at the chain factory and shipped as a unit which would eliminate the master link... Regardless, I never said that it's impossible for a chain to break, I said that I have never seen it. Also it seems that Suzuki had had problems with chains and TLRs a decade ago if I'm not mistaken...

As someone that has spent a good part of his life doing mechanical service, my BS radar goes off immediately whenever a customer claims to have done "everything right" but yet they still have a premature breakage.

Amber Lamps · 01-14-2011, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kerry_129

Very valid point on the diminishing rate of return the more you spend - the continued tool analogy is a good one, and maybe that $80 RK is the 'Craftsman' chain.

I can also see a 2-1 front/rear swap being fine, especially if you're not running the chain to the ragged edge (I don't either, and generally swap it once I start to see any kinking). Not like a little faster (maybe negligible) rate-of-wear is going to be a catastrophe, especially on a small/lightly-ridden street bike. I guess my mindset is just that since there's always SOME wear, it should be changed always (and I've read/heard that point several times, I think mostly from chain/sprocket mfgs - go figure

).
I did know a guy years ago who went down pretty hard due to a nearly-new snapped chain, though I wasn't with him at the time - supposedly it wasn't at the master-link & the pin just shattered. Never had a problem with one myself - but I do consider it a 'critical component' since a failure could potentially hurt/kill you & probably would give zero warning & why I advised to be a bit paranoid of the least-expensive ones out there.

Lon - I'm not so fond of 'arguing', but I like a good discussion/debate too as long as they stay friendly. Sorry if I sometimes come off as arrogant or know-it-all in expressing my opinions in writing, I don't mean to & I don't think that my opinions/views are the only 'right' ones (hardly!).

No fair!!!!! But you're an engineer, I LOVE debating with engineers!!!

I'm not suggesting that he doesn't swap it, I only gave that as an option because it can be a fucking pain to get the old one off!!!

Again, I've heard stories of chains breaking for no reason-btw was it a name brand chain? hee,hee, I just find it far fetched. Improbable not impossible imho. My biggest problem has always been the "no warning" aspect of these situations. I've had lots of dealings with chain in industrial applications and without fail they have always shown signs of wear before they've broken. This out of no where scenario is hard for me to swallow. I mean how far did they let the thing stretch? Were there kinks? Was the chain properly adjusted? Aligned? I agree that it's a critical component BUT I also know that it is something that is highly quality controlled for that very reason. At least as much as brake pads or tires. NOBODY wants that lawsuit or reputation!!!

A couple guys go down due to failures and it would be over for almost any chain manufacturer these days.

01-14-2011, 07:40 PM	#38
Kerry_129 Semi-reformed Squid Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 531	Very valid point on the diminishing rate of return the more you spend - the continued tool analogy is a good one, and maybe that $80 RK is the 'Craftsman' chain. I can also see a 2-1 front/rear swap being fine, especially if you're not running the chain to the ragged edge (I don't either, and generally swap it once I start to see any kinking). Not like a little faster (maybe negligible) rate-of-wear is going to be a catastrophe, especially on a small/lightly-ridden street bike. I guess my mindset is just that since there's always SOME wear, it should be changed always (and I've read/heard that point several times, I think mostly from chain/sprocket mfgs - go figure ). I did know a guy years ago who went down pretty hard due to a nearly-new snapped chain, though I wasn't with him at the time - supposedly it wasn't at the master-link & the pin just shattered. Never had a problem with one myself - but I do consider it a 'critical component' since a failure could potentially hurt/kill you & probably would give zero warning & why I advised to be a bit paranoid of the least-expensive ones out there. Lon - I'm not so fond of 'arguing', but I like a good discussion/debate too as long as they stay friendly. Sorry if I sometimes come off as arrogant or know-it-all in expressing my opinions in writing, I don't mean to & I don't think that my opinions/views are the only 'right' ones (hardly!). Last edited by Kerry_129; 01-14-2011 at 07:43 PM..

01-14-2011, 01:21 PM	#32
Amber Lamps Moto GP Star Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 14,556	To the "replace both sprockets" crowd I say this, I replace my chain every year or so anyway because I want it to look good. I'm not trying to set any chain mileage records. I normally change the front every two rears and it has worked fine for me so far. I've NEVER broken a chain nor have I EVER seen a chain break in 30 years of riding. The only chain related problems I've seen were due to improper clip on link installation, which is why I always use the rivet style link. Even with that being said, the clip link failures were ALWAYS due to vise grip installs/mis-aligned chains. If they had used a chain press and aligned the chain, I doubt that there would have been problems.

01-14-2011, 01:46 PM	#33
Homeslice Elitist Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: SF Bay Area Moto: Gix 750 Posts: 11,351	Sprockets are friggin cheap anyway, I don't know why anyone wouldn't replace them. Typically $20-25 for the front, $60 for the rear. Plus they are selling them as a kit with the chain more often these days, for under $200.