Break in period - Page 4

karl_1052 · 10-09-2009, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Pussy.

JC

why are you calling him a pussy?
You have had your bike 1993 years longer than him.

Sixxxxer · 10-10-2009, 12:47 PM

I'm with AMJ...I hit Redline within the first 50 Miles of owning the ZX6...I cant find the website right now but there was a guy who wrote up a story on how driving cars/bikes harder than the "break in " period allows for actually makes the engines withstand more as far as abuse goes...and I've heard that some newer cars will make more power based on the ECU and it knowing how often you go WOT and whatnot.

Personally...I think break in periods are stupid...But thats just my opinion.

RedRider2k2 · 10-10-2009, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fasternyou929

Not looking to recreate an old debate, but if beating the piss out of a new motor were the way to go, why would manufacturers have a break-in period versus saying "here's your new bike, go ride it"?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeslice

Simple:

1) They don't know/don't care which method is best -- they simply chose the one that is less likely to break something and cause warranty claims.

2) They know that a large % of bike purchases are newbies, and they want to avoid the lawsuits & bad publicity caused by new riders riding too fast too soon and crashing.

Exactly. From another post on another site...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redrider2k2

We've already spoke of this. A lot of people have a hard enough time even riding a new bike let alone doing a proper hard break-in. The manufacturers give you a safe middle of the road break in procedure because they know most people wont screw it up. Does it work for the most part? Sure. Their bikes last alright and work fine. But, they have been known to have horsepower gains and last just as long or longer with nothing more than a proper break in.

When Diesel Engines are rebuilt or tested new they are ran on a Dyno. They dont pussyfoot around either. They idle for a few minutes to get a quick check over for leaks etc, run with a slight load until up to operating temp then they scream their guts out for a while at max rated Horsepower and finally are lugged down nice and low to their max rated torque.

But I guess Truck engines dont last that long....Right?

Homeslice · 10-10-2009, 05:53 PM

net-net: owners manual=crap

Dave · 10-10-2009, 09:41 PM

#1 they break em in on the dyno before it leaves the factory #2 you want to cut the rings like you are going to ride the bike

Tmall · 10-11-2009, 08:35 AM

I didn't break my buell in stupid hard. But, I redlined the first 3 gears the first time I took it out.

I took it home, let it cool down. Ran it through a few more heat cycles and then changed the oil.

There was a bit of metal on the drain plug, that was it. And I've run it normally since.
In about 15000 miles the only issues I've had were from cheap components and sensors. Nothing internal has gone wrong.

Tmall · 10-11-2009, 08:36 AM

Keep in mind, I'm of the same train of thought as redrider, when we rebuild or fix a diesel. Its gets run to idle, gets a quick look over and then its run flat out for hours.

CasterTroy · 10-11-2009, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tmall

Keep in mind, I'm of the same train of thought as redrider, when we rebuild or fix a diesel. Its gets run to idle, gets a quick look over and then its run flat out for hours.

Don't you dyno it?

I've got a buddy who's lead over at Cummins atlantic, and if I'm not mistaken, he's told me when he rebuilds he "takes it straight to the dyno and runs the ever-livin-shit out of it, cause if it's gonna break, I want it to break right THERE so I can fix it and not on the road for a customer"

Tmall · 10-11-2009, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CasterTroy

Don't you dyno it?

I've got a buddy who's lead over at Cummins atlantic, and if I'm not mistaken, he's told me when he rebuilds he "takes it straight to the dyno and runs the ever-livin-shit out of it, cause if it's gonna break, I want it to break right THERE so I can fix it and not on the road for a customer"

While I'm not a full on diesel mechanic. They just teach us the ins and outs in case one of our generators breaks at sea. That is exactly what we do. Hook it up to the inertial dyno, start it, check over the basics, then run the piss out of it.

Before we rebuilt our engine. We had to get a baseline dyno run. Our engine upon pre-overhaul run up seized up #1 cylinder and #4 was close. All because the oil jets for the skirt cooling were plugged.

We replaced those power packs (piston, liner, rings and wrist pin) reassembled it, then put it back on the dyno and ran the piss out of it. Keeping in mind though, that every single component was gone over with a micrometer/dial gauge/feeler gauge to make sure it was fully in spec.

It didn't have a single problem except for loose wires on the starter that sparked a good bit initially.

was92v · 10-11-2009, 11:13 AM

Do you guys think there is a difference between a new engine /gearbox and rebuilding an engine that all the other hundreds of parts are already run in?
There are hundreds of friction points in a new engine/gearbox that are lapping in besides the cylinder walls, piston skirts and rings in a new motorcycle engine/gearbox that are not at all a concern when rebuilding a used unit. I worry more about gear tooth faces, dog surface and bearing run in, than the ring to wall seal. With the rings and the cylinder finish used these days, unless something was screwed up when it was built, the ring/wall seal in a done deal almost as soon as you start the engine. After rebuilding an engine, a couple of heat cycles to shape the piston is about it. All the rest is already done.

10-10-2009, 12:47 PM	#32
Sixxxxer Like Gixxxxer But Not Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Dirty Jersey Moto: 2008 ZX6R Posts: 4,891	I'm with AMJ...I hit Redline within the first 50 Miles of owning the ZX6...I cant find the website right now but there was a guy who wrote up a story on how driving cars/bikes harder than the "break in " period allows for actually makes the engines withstand more as far as abuse goes...and I've heard that some newer cars will make more power based on the ECU and it knowing how often you go WOT and whatnot. Personally...I think break in periods are stupid...But thats just my opinion. __________________ [FRSH] Candy Plasma Blue

10-10-2009, 05:53 PM	#34
Homeslice Elitist Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: SF Bay Area Moto: Gix 750 Posts: 11,351	net-net: owners manual=crap

10-10-2009, 09:41 PM	#35
Dave Chaotic Neutral Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Cherry Hill NJ Moto: GV1200 Madura, Hawk gt Posts: 13,992	#1 they break em in on the dyno before it leaves the factory #2 you want to cut the rings like you are going to ride the bike

10-11-2009, 08:35 AM	#36
Tmall Aspiring Rapper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Halifax, NS Moto: '12 CB1000R Posts: 3,569	I didn't break my buell in stupid hard. But, I redlined the first 3 gears the first time I took it out. I took it home, let it cool down. Ran it through a few more heat cycles and then changed the oil. There was a bit of metal on the drain plug, that was it. And I've run it normally since. In about 15000 miles the only issues I've had were from cheap components and sensors. Nothing internal has gone wrong.

10-11-2009, 08:36 AM	#37
Tmall Aspiring Rapper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Halifax, NS Moto: '12 CB1000R Posts: 3,569	Keep in mind, I'm of the same train of thought as redrider, when we rebuild or fix a diesel. Its gets run to idle, gets a quick look over and then its run flat out for hours.

10-11-2009, 11:13 AM	#40
was92v Nowhere Man Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 558	Do you guys think there is a difference between a new engine /gearbox and rebuilding an engine that all the other hundreds of parts are already run in? There are hundreds of friction points in a new engine/gearbox that are lapping in besides the cylinder walls, piston skirts and rings in a new motorcycle engine/gearbox that are not at all a concern when rebuilding a used unit. I worry more about gear tooth faces, dog surface and bearing run in, than the ring to wall seal. With the rings and the cylinder finish used these days, unless something was screwed up when it was built, the ring/wall seal in a done deal almost as soon as you start the engine. After rebuilding an engine, a couple of heat cycles to shape the piston is about it. All the rest is already done.