My KLR 650

[Mr Lefty]

Originally Posted by derf

That tail light just screams "I am the short bus"

I spent the last 6 hours taking the bike apart and adding a 12v outlet. I would have been done 4 hours ago but I found some frayed/fraying wires so I went through the whole wire harness and found and patched and moved and protected any wire I could see that was rubbing. Just need to figure out how to mount the dashboard with the 12v outlet now. Tommorrow while the bike is apart I am going to bypass the kick stand and clutch kill switches, both have been known to fail eventually on every klr apparently. I'm not going to actually bypass it, just add a jumper in line with the wire that I can just plug together if it ever becomes a problem.

yeah the tail light could have been done much better IMO... but KLR's never have been much to look at. functionality is their point.

you might buy some of that plastic wire loom and protect the wires further

I haven't disco'd the clutch or kickstand cut out switches... but I have had a couple issues with the kickstand one when I stand, my heel forces the kick stand down a bit and on a decent bump my bike cuts out... so that'll be done this winter I think.

how big a stator do you have on the KLR? the DRZ's is only 200w... bike draws about 150 or so...

[derf]

Originally Posted by eBBs15

you might buy some of that plastic wire loom and protect the wires further

Done, that shits everywhere

Originally Posted by eBBs15

how big a stator do you have on the KLR? the DRZ's is only 200w... bike draws about 150 or so...

250w, the bike draws 170, I can get it down to 140 by switching the tail light and dashboard to LED's, getting rid of the lic plate bulb. There is also an aftermarket stator available that jumps the output up to 350w

[derf]

here is my creation over the last 2 days

the wires to the rear were fraying, along with the tube, reinforced and protected



wired up the fuse box on the right side, behind the overflow bottle, plenty of room under there, also use the horn mount for the relay.



Homemade dash bolted to the guage cluster, I need more stuff up there



and with my audio pack

[Particle Man]

Nice work, man.

[Mr Lefty]

Originally Posted by derf

Done, that shits everywhere



250w, the bike draws 170, I can get it down to 140 by switching the tail light and dashboard to LED's, getting rid of the lic plate bulb. There is also an aftermarket stator available that jumps the output up to 350w

you can also swap in a HID light. that's why I put one in the DRZ... drop from 55/65 watts (low/high) to 35w for both. and the light output is much better (wish the cutoff wasn't so sloppy though... thinking of throwing a SV650 light on the front)

Originally Posted by derf

here is my creation over the last 2 days

the wires to the rear were fraying, along with the tube, reinforced and protected



wired up the fuse box on the right side, behind the overflow bottle, plenty of room under there, also use the horn mount for the relay.



Homemade dash bolted to the guage cluster, I need more stuff up there



and with my audio pack

Looks good bro!

[derf]

Originally Posted by eBBs15

you can also swap in a HID light. that's why I put one in the DRZ... drop from 55/65 watts (low/high) to 35w for both. and the light output is much better

Eventually, but I need to buy some other stuff first (gas tank, top box, lever guards, heated grips, longer shift lever, possibly a rear shock, new helmet, gonna get a textile suit, and less aggressive riding boots). HID's and LED tail light to save electricity are on my list, but they are not a priority. Before the HID's I also want to get the oversized brake rotor and caliper relocation kit.

I think the only thing I want to after the headlight is the 18" wheel conversion for the front, supposedly its a much better ride, both on and off road.




And just for a laugh read the last post on this page
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthr...=39199&page=19

There are plenty of (skinny) "front" tires availavle for a 19" rim. I think most guys running the 18" on the front do so because the fatter rear tires fit on the rims.

This raises an interesting thought. I don't know if anybody is running directional tread but if so, directional tread is usually reversed from front to rear because you want acceleration grip on the rear and deceleration grip on the front. I first noticed this on my friends sport bike after he had new tires put on and I said 'your treads are reversed' then I looked for the direction arrows and saw that they were correct.

[Mr Lefty]

all of my tires have been directional tread... and they go the same direction as the rear... guess that's why my breaking sucks... or maybe it's my acceleration


I'll eventually change the headlight.. but it's down the list. as far as the bike is concerned... though I do want SS lines... I'm pretty much done, though I would like to eventually design my own rack for my luggage, but I wanna(need to) learn how to weld first.

I thought about a larger front rotor... but was warned against it as off roading it would get hit a lot more often

[101lifts2]

I saw a 2009 KLR with 1500 miles for 3499 at one dealer here in CA.

[caveman]

Derf, I am not sure that you have enough two-wheeled vehicles in that garage of yours. I think you need at least three more.

[derf]

You know caveman there comes a time when it's just inconvinient to keep moving bikes around just to get them out of the garage that would make it not worth it.