stainless steel oil filters

[Gas Man]

A quick search gave me this about the rating of meeting only 50% of it rated value:

http://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil/mom7.shtml

IF MICRON LEVELS ARE TO BE USED

Nevertheless, you may still want to compare filters using micron ratings. If this is the case, the following is a good rule of thumb. A filter is considered nominally efficient at a certain micron level if it can remove 50 percent of particles that size. In other words, a filter that will consistently remove 50% of particles 20 microns or larger is nominally efficient at 20 microns.

A filter is considered to achieve absolute filtration efficiency at a certain micron level if it can remove 98.7% of particles that size. So, if a filter can remove 98.7% of particles 20 microns or larger, it achieves absolute efficiency at that micron level.

Most off-the-shelf filters are based upon a cellulose fiber filtration media. Most of these filters are, at best, nominally efficient at 15 to 20 microns. They won't generally achieve absolute efficiency until particle sizes reach 30 microns or higher.

High efficiency oil filters have filtration media made of a combination of at least two of the following: glass, synthetic fibers and cellulose fibers. Those that use all three are generally the best in terms of filtration. Those that use only two will fall somewhere in between. The best of these high efficiency filters will achieve absolute efficiency down to about 10 microns and will be nominally efficient down to 5 microns or so.

Well the K&N guy stated

Our synthetic-cellulose blend filter media stops particles as small as 10-20 microns at 90 Percent efficiency while still allowing high flow rates (between 12-16 gallons per minute, depending on filter size).

So wouldn't that mean that their best filter can pass things as large as 22 microns.

Further I don't believe thier GPM. That is going to be the best filter size which will be MANY MANY times bigger than our little filters and at what PSI input from the oil pump... 40psi?

I thought I read that the K&P filter has absolute (100%) efficiency at 35 microns. NOTHING gets past it bigger than 35 microns.

[Gas Man]

So has this info fallen to deaf ears?

[goof2]

Not deaf ears, but when they hear $100+ for an oil filter they become very hard of hearing.

[Cutty72]

Originally Posted by goof2

Not deaf ears, but when they hear $100+ for an oil filter they become very hard of hearing.

3 years and it's paid for itself for me.

I should look into it.

[askmrjesus]

Originally Posted by goof2

Not deaf ears, but when they hear $100+ for an oil filter they become very hard of hearing.

Multiplied by the 5 bikes I have, that's about 600 clams to drop on oil filters, that I have to clean.

I've been running HIFLOWFILTRO's on all my bikes for about the last ten years. They're TUV approved.

TUV, is the German testing agency for all things automotive. Basically, if you want to run any aftermarket part in Germany, it has to be TUV approved. Getting a TUV approval, is notoriously difficult. You have to jump through some major hoops. The K&N filters for bikes, are actually made by HIFLOW.

As far as the math goes, what's your time worth? I'd have to guess you're looking at an hour or so, to get the stainless filter 100% clean?

For my applications, an $8.00, 10 micron filter that I don't have to fuck with, beats a $125.00, 30 micron filter hands down.

JC

[Tmall]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Multiplied by the 5 bikes I have, that's about 600 clams to drop on oil filters, that I have to clean.

I've been running HIFLOWFILTRO's on all my bikes for about the last ten years. They're TUV approved.

TUV, is the German testing agency for all things automotive. Basically, if you want to run any aftermarket part in Germany, it has to be TUV approved. Getting a TUV approval, is notoriously difficult. You have to jump through some major hoops. The K&N filters for bikes, are actually made by HIFLOW.

As far as the math goes, what's your time worth? I'd have to guess you're looking at an hour or so, to get the stainless filter 100% clean?

For my applications, an $8.00, 10 micron filter that I don't have to fuck with, beats a $125.00, 30 micron filter hands down.

JC

If it takes you any more than 5-10 minutes to clean a filter, you're doing it wrong. If you use solvents you should be able to dunk and swish. If you use compressed air, wrap it in a rag and blow the air through.. We do it all the time at work.

How long does it take you to drive to the store and back and wait at the parts counter? That's not to say you couldn't just buy a case of oil filters..

[askmrjesus]

Originally Posted by Tmall

If it takes you any more than 5-10 minutes to clean a filter, you're doing it wrong. If you use solvents you should be able to dunk and swish. If you use compressed air, wrap it in a rag and blow the air through.. We do it all the time at work.

I'm too anal about my bikes, to do anything in 5-10 minutes.

A question about solvents; What are you using, and what effect does its ingredients have on your oil?

Originally Posted by Tmall

How long does it take you to drive to the store and back and wait at the parts counter? That's not to say you couldn't just buy a case of oil filters..

My filter supply is usually about 6 deep, per bike. It's a 90 minute round trip to "town", so I hoard bike supplies.

JC

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Multiplied by the 5 bikes I have, that's about 600 clams to drop on oil filters, that I have to clean.

I've been running HIFLOWFILTRO's on all my bikes for about the last ten years. They're TUV approved.

TUV, is the German testing agency for all things automotive. Basically, if you want to run any aftermarket part in Germany, it has to be TUV approved. Getting a TUV approval, is notoriously difficult. You have to jump through some major hoops. The K&N filters for bikes, are actually made by HIFLOW.

As far as the math goes, what's your time worth? I'd have to guess you're looking at an hour or so, to get the stainless filter 100% clean?

For my applications, an $8.00, 10 micron filter that I don't have to fuck with, beats a $125.00, 30 micron filter hands down.

JC

I'm kinda with you on this... I'm lazy and would probably "forget" to clean the damn thing...

I fully understand the arguments presented here but;

1. I change my oil frequently and doubt that it gets dirty enough to cause the problems presented.

2. I'm not convinced that a few small pieces of paper are a serious threat to my engine.

3. Millions of engines run billions of miles on "paper filters" without problems. This sounds like a lot of hype and fear tactics to sell $100+ filters.

4. One of my biggest fears is that the aluminum threads decide to get stuck on the steel mount...ever have a stuck oil filter? I wonder if it is harder to remove with the engine hot.

[derf]

Originally Posted by TIGGER

I'm kinda with you on this... I'm lazy and would probably "forget" to clean the damn thing...

I fully understand the arguments presented here but;

1. I change my oil frequently and doubt that it gets dirty enough to cause the problems presented.

2. I'm not convinced that a few small pieces of paper are a serious threat to my engine.

3. Millions of engines run billions of miles on "paper filters" without problems. This sounds like a lot of hype and fear tactics to sell $100+ filters.

4. One of my biggest fears is that the aluminum threads decide to get stuck on the steel mount...ever have a stuck oil filter? I wonder if it is harder to remove with the engine hot.

I totally agree with you on this post.

3. if its good enough for the masses then its good enough for me, paper filters have done me fine up to this point, not gonna change now.

4. If I ever have a regular oil filter that is too stuck to remove with a filter wrench, I just stab it with a screw driver and twist off like that.

[fasternyou929]

No, still reading.