New chain and sprockets

[Amber Lamps]

Okay, I'd replace the rear sprocket with a Supersprox and replace the chain with an EK, Honestly, I'd leave the front... I'm willing to bet that the front will spec out as new considering the bike and it's stated use. Under $200 shipped.

http://www.solomotoparts.com/product...0&cat=0&page=2

http://www.solomotoparts.com/product...cat=318&page=1

Or you can get the entire kit from them for $239 and it will come with a lifetime defect warranty and a 2 year wear out warranty.


http://www.supersproxusa.com/products.php?cat=1764

Or you can go cheap...less than $120. Chain comes in 4 colors, red, blue, green, or gold. I've dealt with these guys before and they are okay. In fact, here's another 15% just because we're dogs! D2M2008 which makes the whole shooting match about $96 including shipping. The sprockets are steel JTs which are decent IMHO and the chain is Tsubaki I believe which should be okay for an SV driven for commuting.

http://www.d2moto.com/p-8273-525-o-r...inks-gold.aspx

http://www.d2moto.com/p-7886-jt-525-...1999-2008.aspx

http://www.d2moto.com/p-7057-jt-525-...650-sv650.aspx

[OneSickPsycho]

What? No Supersprox 520 conversion for the Tiller?

[Cutty72]

Awesome work, thanks AL!

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Cutty72

Awesome work, thanks AL!

You're welcome! Let me know what you think about the chain... I might do the blue... BTW they come in blue, red, green, black and gold.... For $45, I don't really care if they only last 1 season.... They do come with a 1 year warranty.

[Kerry_129]

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ker-66488.html

Or a Dremel/side-grinder works well, but takes a bit of care.


I agree on not skimping on the chain - though that $45 one is probably just fine for street/commuter-duty & a great deal if it's up-to-snuff. But wearing out a bit quicker is one thing, breaking a link is another. In my mind, it's somewhat of an unknown as to the actual quality (material/heat-treating - and I'm guessing it's made in China), and given the potential consequences of slinging a chain I'll stick with a top-notch established mfg. vs. saving ~$50 over 10~20k miles.

I'd recommend always replacing both sprox - you can't eyeball wear of just a few thousandths, and that's all it takes to wear out the chain much quicker.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Kerry_129

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ker-66488.html

Or a Dremel/side-grinder works well, but takes a bit of care.


I agree on not skimping on the chain - though that $45 one is probably just fine for street/commuter-duty & a great deal if it's up-to-snuff. But wearing out a bit quicker is one thing, breaking a link is another. In my mind, it's somewhat of an unknown as to the actual quality (material/heat-treating - and I'm guessing it's made in China), and given the potential consequences of slinging a chain I'll stick with a top-notch established mfg. vs. saving ~$50 over 10~20k miles.

I'd recommend always replacing both sprox - you can't eyeball wear of just a few thousandths, and that's all it takes to wear out the chain much quicker.

Uhuh.... SV650 70 hp and 47 tq... not thinking any chain is getting snapped here.... Especially by some girl riding back and forth to work. As far as the front sprocket goes, I found a Sunstar/JT (which is stock btw) for $16 and a rear for $40 something....so if they want to replace the front, go for it but they make something called a caliper that will tell you if your sprocket is withing spec or not, I don't think that anyone said to "eye ball it". Quite frankly, that's the same sprocket that they put on the GSXR600/750 some years and I know from experience that the fronts are almost never wore out of spec. It's not the price of the part but the hassle of getting it off and back on... Heck, Cutty has nothing better to do right now so have at it.

Different chain....

$100 EK
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...#ht_500wt_1182

$80 RK chain AND a Motion Pro alignment tool!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RK-GB...#ht_500wt_1182

Another EK for $80...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EK-Qu...#ht_1599wt_931

Anybody can go on EBay and find a chain for under $100, I thought that he wanted something CHEAP for this bike. I could have swore he said he didn't need "racer boy" spec parts...so why blather on about $200 sprockets and $200+ chains? Anyway, there you go, you can buy the STOCK sprockets from D2Moto for about $60 shipped and get a chain and alignment tool for $90 shipped....$150 for a "quality" read name brand chain and the stock steel sprockets with a bonus alignment tool thrown in. Ta Daa!!!

[Kerry_129]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

so why blather on about $200 sprockets and $200+ chains?

Blather? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black!
Who said anything about $200 chains & sprockets?

I'm simply expressing my opinion that sticking with a quality name-brand chain, which can be had for <$100 vs. the cheapest one available might be wise - though as I said, it's likely fine for the application. Not suggesting the SV is gonna snap it in two either, simply that there may be a greater chance for material defect/failure with an el-cheapo.

As far as 'I know from experience that the fronts are almost never wore out of spec.'....

I'm curious - what specification/dimension are you referring to, and how exactly are you claiming to be able to measure it with a pair of calipers? The chain itself, easy - sprocket tooth profile, not so much...

I agree that the front will wear much slower than the rear typically, and you can get away with not swapping it - but it WILL shorten the life of the chain to some degree, because there WILL be some tooth wear, even if it isn't obvious. I'm just saying, why skimp $20 & not do it right?

Originally Posted by Cutty72

I don't necessarily need the Joe cool racer boy stuff, just something that's gonna last.

My best advice - get a decent chain (which a bargain-basement one may or may not be), and replace BOTH sprockets. Oh - and it's safest to stick with a rivet-style master link, and align the rear wheel/sprocket w/ a gauge or the string method (don't trust the swingarm marks).

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Kerry_129

Blather? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black!
Who said anything about $200 chains & sprockets?

I'm simply expressing my opinion that sticking with a quality name-brand chain, which can be had for <$100 vs. the cheapest one available might be wise - though as I said, it's likely fine for the application. Not suggesting the SV is gonna snap it in two either, simply that there may be a greater chance for material defect/failure with an el-cheapo.

As far as 'I know from experience that the fronts are almost never wore out of spec.'....

I'm curious - what specification/dimension are you referring to, and how exactly are you claiming to be able to measure it with a pair of calipers? The chain itself, easy - sprocket tooth profile, not so much...

I agree that the front will wear much slower than the rear typically, and you can get away with not swapping it - but it WILL shorten the life of the chain to some degree, because there WILL be some tooth wear, even if it isn't obvious. I'm just saying, why skimp $20 & not do it right?



My best advice - get a decent chain (which a bargain-basement one may or may not be), and replace BOTH sprockets. Oh - and it's safest to stick with a rivet-style master link, and align the rear wheel/sprocket w/ a gauge or the string method (don't trust the swingarm marks).

First, what's my race got to do with it?

Second, I do believe that there is a specific distance between the teeth on a sprocket and the width of the sprocket itself. You can also "eyeball" the play of the links in the sprocket itself...um kinda like you can tell if you need a rear sprocket...it is the same thing, you know....

Besides, you are ASSuming that the chain I linked is junk just because A. it's inexpensive and B. it's not a name brand and C. it's made in China... Oh no a chain made in China, no way. I bet none of the name brand chains are made in China. The chain has a 8200 lb tensile strength, plenty for a SV.

At any rate, I posted a RK chain with a chain alignment tool for $80... Again, the sprockets are steel which will last as long as the stock ones, no problem.

[Homeslice]

AFAM ftw, imo....

Their aluminum sprockets are hard-adonized.......I got 18K out of a set.........so there is no reason NOT to use aluminum IMO, especially if you are just commuting, not putting much of a load on it.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Homeslice

AFAM ftw, imo....

Their aluminum sprockets are hard-adonized.......I got 18K out of a set.........so there is no reason NOT to use aluminum IMO, especially if you are just commuting, not putting much of a load on it.

Yea I believe you but.... I can't get one to last. Best sprocket I ever owned was a Sidewinder Tri-Metal, alum carrier, stainless rivets and Ti alloy teeth! 35,000 miles on a GSXR1000 when I traded it! Of course they don't make it anymore...