"Green light changer" / traffic light magnet

[Amber Lamps]

Yea mine isn't any better. I think it helps on the ones that would change if I put my kick stand down but it's completely ineffective on the ones that don't work with the stand.

[Gas Man]

Tigger, contact Don, I'm sure he would like to hear your feedback.

[NONE_too_SOFT]

i just make sure its safe and go after waiting more than a few minutes. two scenarios.

1. a cop will have no idea what you are talking about because they dont ride, and will more than likely just let you go considering you were trying to be safe.
2. the cop rides and can relate, and lets you go.

usually in heavily trafficed areas its not a problem, cause you'll get cars behind you that can creep up and trigger it, and in the boonies, well, who the hell cares nobody's around.

[NeonspeedRT]

Originally Posted by '73 H1 Triple

What do you fellow enthusiasts think, will it work or did I waste my money?

Jeff

Jeff,
Unfortunatly I think you just wasted your money. I have never heard of one of those working. Here is something I had a traffic engineer for the city of Jax tell me in one of the classes I was teaching.

First things, if your city uses the sensors in the ground, try and position your bike in the top left corner of the sensor. You can usually see the cutout in the ground. Try and get as close to the top left as you can without going past the cutout line. Thats where the sensor is strongest.

Second thing, with your bike running, and in the upper left corner of the sensor, hit your engine start button once or twice. It won't hurt anything at all. The switch will send enough of a signal for the sensor to ditect. I was told this about a year ago. It has worked for me 99.9% of the time since then. I used to have lights that would never turn, no matter what I did. Now I try this method and like I said it has worked for me 99.9% of the time.
Good luck and let me know if it works for you.

[Rider]

A little trick the MSF coaches taught me. If you can see the sensor in the road, put your bike in neutral and touch your side stand on the ground where the sensor is. It should cause the light to sense you and it should change.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Rider

A little trick the MSF coaches taught me. If you can see the sensor in the road, put your bike in neutral and touch your side stand on the ground where the sensor is. It should cause the light to sense you and it should change.

That is a great idea!

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by NeonspeedRT

Jeff,
Unfortunatly I think you just wasted your money. I have never heard of one of those working. Here is something I had a traffic engineer for the city of Jax tell me in one of the classes I was teaching.

First things, if your city uses the sensors in the ground, try and position your bike in the top left corner of the sensor. You can usually see the cutout in the ground. Try and get as close to the top left as you can without going past the cutout line. Thats where the sensor is strongest.

Second thing, with your bike running, and in the upper left corner of the sensor, hit your engine start button once or twice. It won't hurt anything at all. The switch will send enough of a signal for the sensor to ditect. I was told this about a year ago. It has worked for me 99.9% of the time since then. I used to have lights that would never turn, no matter what I did. Now I try this method and like I said it has worked for me 99.9% of the time.
Good luck and let me know if it works for you.

Hell,I'm gonna try that tonight,along with a magnet and a strip of metal.

[marko138]

Originally Posted by Rider

A little trick the MSF coaches taught me. If you can see the sensor in the road, put your bike in neutral and touch your side stand on the ground where the sensor is. It should cause the light to sense you and it should change.

I've tried that...doesn't do shit around here.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by marko138

I've tried that...doesn't do shit around here.

It's worked for me on occasion. It all depends on how deep they buried the wire,the size/shape of the loop,where the sensitivity is set on the sensor unit,etc. In a lot of cases,a bike is just barely out of sensing range and just a small increase will trip the system. Even those goofy small magnets could work in some cases,I guess....probably not tho',sorry bro. Oh I forgot,the age of the loop makes a big difference as they're making them a lot more sensitive because of the way cars are being made these days. I've had to replace them at dealerships because they wouldn't react to new,smaller,less ferrous cars.

[t-homo]

I normally don't have a problem, but the kickstand thing has helped for me in the past.