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Old 07-05-2010, 10:44 AM   #1
Full Throttle
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Default My R6 has busted Fork Seal need help.

I posted this in another thread that is related but no one answered my question so im making my own thread.

I recently went to the dealer to just have them look over a few small things i was worried about. (didnt need to worry everything was fine) Anyways they went ahead and looked over the whole bike for me and rode it around a little bit and found somethings that i had not noticed. One of my Fork seals has a leak. I need a new Air Filter and a rear tire (well i knew i needed a tire just dont have the cash at the moment lol). So I thought i should try and fix the forks first. I need some help in that field cause ive never done anything like that before. I dont have a lift but i have 2 Car jacks lol so i can get the front wheel off but im not really sure what all i need to do to replace the fluid and the seals. Also im pretty sure its never been done before and its got 19,356 miles on it so it needs to get done. If Anyone has any experience on a 2000 R6 i would really appreciate any help.

I was thinking that if you could lend me some knowledge GAS or anyone else i would really appreciate it. I dont want to pay out the ass for a something i can do myself.
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Old 07-05-2010, 11:50 AM   #2
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So you noticed little oil rings on your upper fork tube, or oil is leaking down onto your rotor. Most likely you have a leaking fork seal. The danger is obvious, it is important to fix it ASAP. This can be done in an evening your first time, and shouldnt be more than $50 in parts.

There are many ways to go about this. Some people may want to replace other components of the suspension while the forks are off, but write up is just for the fork seals. I am not a professional mechanic. By doing things this way, you assume all liability for damage to your bike. This should only be used as a helpful giude to supplement the OEM manual. These links should prove helpful as well:

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/forkseals/
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/howtoforkseal/
http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/forkseal.html

What you will need:

Rear stand
Front headstock stand (or floor jack and 2x4)
bottle jack

Replacement fork seals
Replacement dust covers (optional, are yours in good shape?)
Replacement O-ring for fork cap. (optional)
1 quart of oil. (I used 10W-30 since my fork oil is 10W)
1000cc of fork oil.
fork oil gauge or ratio cup
27mm deep socket, ratchet.
6mm hex key
5mm hex key
small flathead screwdriver
Seal driver (or homemade device)
tape measure

Start by breaking the fork cap loose. Do not remove it yet, just pop it loose so it is easier to remove later.



Put the rear of the bike on a stand, then either jack the bike up or use a front headstock stand to get the front wheel off of the ground. I used a jack with a 2x4 on the stock headers. I do not recommend this way, but it was my only option. Remove the ram air covers, front calipers (hang them out of the way with something, dont let them dangle by the lines), front wheel, front fender.

Measure the distance from the top of the fork tube to your triple, or clip-on, so you know where to replace it.



Now you remove the fork.

Loosen the upper triple clamp bolt (6mm). To get at this bolt, you will probably also have to loosen the clip-on and slide it out of the way a bit. Two hex bolts the clip-on in place, a 6mm and a 5mm (covered by plastic cap).
Here is a picture of the upper triple bolt:


Now loosen the two 6mm hex bolts on the lower triple clamp. These are the last two bolts holding the fork up, so have an assistant (a hot girl is ideal) hold the tube to keep it from dropping out.



The tube should slide right out. Take your small screwdriver and pry off the dust cap. If you did not buy new ones be careful not to damage them.


Slide the seal off of the fork tube. Now use your small screwdriver to remove the retaining clip. Start at one end and work your way around. Take care not to bend or break this clip if you are re-using it.
This picture shows the clip half out and half in... Notice the leaky oil that we hope to fix.


Now there is nothing holding the oil seals in. From here there are two paths: Completely disassemble the fork or fill it with oil and compress it to pop the seal. I chose the more simple, less damaging route.

Finish removing the fork cap. It will pop off with some force, so be ready for it. Now, use your cheap oil to fill the fork. Stuff as much oil in as it will hold. Then install the fork cap. Tighten it, but dont torque it off.

Here is where you will need to get creative. Find a wall, shelf, or anything sturdy to jack against. A chunk of wood against a car tire will work also. I put the socket back on the fork cap while compressing it, to prevent damage to the top.

Get your rig set up with the bottle jack, and put something under the fork to catch the oil that will seep out. (oil drain pan not pictured)



Compress the fork with your jack until you hear a little pop and oil seeps out. Back the jack off and examine your fork seal. One end of it should be close enough for you to pry it out with your small screwdriver. Work your way around the seal until you can grab it and slide it off. Be careful not to scratch your fork while doing this, or its trashed!




Once the seal is off, set it aside. Dont pitch it yet. (unless you have a seal driver).

Remove the fork cap and drain the oil. All of it. Pumping the inner tube will help speed up the process. Make sure to get as much out as possible.

Once you are sure all of the oil is out, take your new oil seal and apply a thin coat of oil to the inner surface (much like an oil filter O-ring). Making sure it is right-side-up (writing up), slide the seal down the inner tube and into place. If you have a seal driver, use it, or if not, place the old seal on top of the new seal and use a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet to tap it into place. Work your way around the seal, then pull the old seal up a bit and check your work. Be fairly gentle, so the new seal doesnt get damaged. You are done when the new seal is completely below the groove for the retaining clip.

Once the seal is seated, re-install the retaining clip. Double check that the ring seats completely in its groove. Once the clip is in place, install the dust cap. Again, use the seal driver or rubber mallet (no screwdriver this time) to tap it around the edge into place.

Now if you have a fork oil level tool, use it to fill the fork with the proper ammount of oil, or if you are using a ratio cup, measure the appropriate ammount (476cc) and pour it in. Pump the inner tube a couple of times. At this point, you should use a tape measure to slide down into the tube to measure the oil height. Remeber this measurement so you can get the second fork oil level equal. Install the fork cap, then install the fork in the triples, sliding it up so it is in the right place (per your measurements earlier) and tighten everything down.

After you finish the other side, re-install everything, and lower the bike, dont forget to torque the fork caps off.

Go ride and enjoy the few hundred dollars you saved!

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r...s-99-02-a.html


Really fork seals sound like they are a bitch to do, but to be honest yeh they are. The first time I changed for seals it took me almost a solid day, having done them again once since, I can do them in about 3 hours. Get a clymer or a haynes manual. Also make yourself a PVC tube installer, easiest and best tool for the job.
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Old 07-05-2010, 11:59 AM   #3
Amber Lamps
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Bro, it's a judgement call... I have never replaced my own seals in almost 30 years of riding. For one, if you remove the forks, most dealerships will do it pretty cheap. I've paid as little as $50 forks out. I must admit that I like Derf's write up though...Second, it's just one of those jobs that I believe can go wrong pretty quick if you don't have the right tools, so I don't mess with it. Just me.
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Old 07-05-2010, 12:12 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Amber Lamps View Post
Bro, it's a judgement call... I have never replaced my own seals in almost 30 years of riding. For one, if you remove the forks, most dealerships will do it pretty cheap. I've paid as little as $50 forks out. I must admit that I like Derf's write up though...Second, it's just one of those jobs that I believe can go wrong pretty quick if you don't have the right tools, so I don't mess with it. Just me.
yea i guess your right ill probably just pull them.
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Old 07-05-2010, 12:52 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Full Throttle View Post
yea i guess your right ill probably just pull them.
Well, do what you feel is best... I mean if Derf can replace his own seals, anybody can!!! I'd check around and see what they would charge you. Maybe even see if you can hang around and watch. It never hurts to watch someone that knows what they are doing do it before you try... I don't want to discourage you BUT I also don't want you to run out to the garage with a print of Derf's instructions and tear your bike apart. My time=$$$ so a full day vs a couple hours and >$100 doesn't sound too bad to me....
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:16 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Amber Lamps View Post
Well, do what you feel is best... I mean if Derf can replace his own seals, anybody can!!! I'd check around and see what they would charge you. Maybe even see if you can hang around and watch. It never hurts to watch someone that knows what they are doing do it before you try... I don't want to discourage you BUT I also don't want you to run out to the garage with a print of Derf's instructions and tear your bike apart. My time=$$$ so a full day vs a couple hours and >$100 doesn't sound too bad to me....

Thats why I said get a clymers or haynes manual, those things are gods gift to oak tree mehanics. The pictures are crap for some stuff, but it does give you a step by step instruction with pictures and how to test for whats wrong. Prolly the best $20 you can spend on any vehicle
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Old 07-05-2010, 03:39 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Amber Lamps View Post
Bro, it's a judgement call... I have never replaced my own seals in almost 30 years of riding. For one, if you remove the forks, most dealerships will do it pretty cheap. I've paid as little as $50 forks out. I must admit that I like Derf's write up though...Second, it's just one of those jobs that I believe can go wrong pretty quick if you don't have the right tools, so I don't mess with it. Just me.
This. I do springs, fork oil, etc but I usually don't mess with the actual seals.

Forks come off REALLY easily on most bikes and dropping 'em off is really easy.
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Old 07-05-2010, 04:12 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Particle Man View Post
This. I do springs, fork oil, etc but I usually don't mess with the actual seals.

Forks come off REALLY easily on most bikes and dropping 'em off is really easy.
Yep!
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Old 07-05-2010, 07:52 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Particle Man View Post
This. I do springs, fork oil, etc but I usually don't mess with the actual seals.

Forks come off REALLY easily on most bikes and dropping 'em off is really easy.
Idk dropping them off pretty tough. I mean i would have to put them in my car and drive all the way down to the shop and drop them off. Damn that just seems like more work than im in for right now lol. But i guess ill be doing that really soon.
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:40 PM   #10
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So how do yall suggest i lift the bike? cause idk how im going to keep the bike lifted when i have to take the forks off.
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