Replacing Solenoid? - Page 2

Kerry_129 · 08-26-2009, 06:17 PM

That's a very good possibility & definitely the next thing to check - good thinkin'!

I'm used to my Hondas which will start in N whether the clutch is pulled or not. She said the pump was priming, so in my mind I ruled-out the kickstand, tip-over, and clutch switch - but you're right, the pump will still prime w/ the clutch out (or the switch defective), just not engage the starter.

Rae, the switch Tigger's talking about is at the bottom of the clutch mount - you should see two wires & the connectors which plug into the switch looking down from above the tank. You can pull those connectors off, and use a small piece of wire to 'jumper' between them.

MikeSP1 · 08-25-2009, 07:51 AM

Here's what I would do if I was there. Jumper the solenoid and try to start it, if it starts then you know that it's the solenoid and you can just buy a new solenoid and be good to go again. If it doesn't start then I (emphasis on the I) would take the starter out and connect each terminal straight to the battery and see if it spins, if it doesn't then you have a bad starter, if it does spin than you a problem with your wiring (which I don't think likely given that I've torn that bike almost completely apart). Based on the symptoms that you mentioned it sounds like the starter solenoid gave up and it should be under you seat.

Kerry_129 · 08-25-2009, 12:56 PM

That pretty much sums up what I was thinking. I wouldn't expect a solenoid to quit without at least a little warning typically, but the onboard fuse may have blown due to the resistance-drop/amperage-spike caused by 'shorted' windings.

Amber Lamps · 08-26-2009, 06:35 PM

Don't say I don't love you, Rae!

Here's the spot.

Take an allen wrench and loosen your clutch lever mount.

Pull the plug off, you'll need to push in on the snap-thingey...

Call NASA and have them send you this "specialty tool" or make one yourself, I guess....

Shove it in the holes and hopefully start your bike... MAKE SURE IT'S IN NEUTRAL !

the chi · 08-26-2009, 11:39 PM

Thanks guys!! Im outta town for Indy right now, but I'll get on it when I get home!!

08-25-2009, 07:51 AM	#2
MikeSP1 Perpetual trouble Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: at the base of the Alps Moto: VTX 1300C, RC51, CBR600RR, CBR929RR Posts: 715	Here's what I would do if I was there. Jumper the solenoid and try to start it, if it starts then you know that it's the solenoid and you can just buy a new solenoid and be good to go again. If it doesn't start then I (emphasis on the I) would take the starter out and connect each terminal straight to the battery and see if it spins, if it doesn't then you have a bad starter, if it does spin than you a problem with your wiring (which I don't think likely given that I've torn that bike almost completely apart). Based on the symptoms that you mentioned it sounds like the starter solenoid gave up and it should be under you seat. __________________ "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid across the line broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, leaking oil, shouting GERONIMO!"

08-26-2009, 06:17 PM	#1
Kerry_129 Semi-reformed Squid Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 531	That's a very good possibility & definitely the next thing to check - good thinkin'! I'm used to my Hondas which will start in N whether the clutch is pulled or not. She said the pump was priming, so in my mind I ruled-out the kickstand, tip-over, and clutch switch - but you're right, the pump will still prime w/ the clutch out (or the switch defective), just not engage the starter. Rae, the switch Tigger's talking about is at the bottom of the clutch mount - you should see two wires & the connectors which plug into the switch looking down from above the tank. You can pull those connectors off, and use a small piece of wire to 'jumper' between them.

08-25-2009, 12:56 PM	#3
Kerry_129 Semi-reformed Squid Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 531	That pretty much sums up what I was thinking. I wouldn't expect a solenoid to quit without at least a little warning typically, but the onboard fuse may have blown due to the resistance-drop/amperage-spike caused by 'shorted' windings.

08-26-2009, 06:35 PM	#4
Amber Lamps Moto GP Star Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 14,556	Don't say I don't love you, Rae! Here's the spot. Take an allen wrench and loosen your clutch lever mount. Pull the plug off, you'll need to push in on the snap-thingey... Call NASA and have them send you this "specialty tool" or make one yourself, I guess.... Shove it in the holes and hopefully start your bike... MAKE SURE IT'S IN NEUTRAL !