Awesoime!!! Engine isn't stuck

[Papa_Complex]

I was thinking more about taking apart all of those questionable splices then redoing them yourself, using solder and a good grade of automotive self-sealing heat shrink. But whatever. Scowl away.

[pauldun170]

Originally Posted by Papa_Complex

I was thinking more about taking apart all of those questionable splices then redoing them yourself, using solder and a good grade of automotive self-sealing heat shrink. But whatever. Scowl away.

So far the only questionable splice was the kickstand switch wire.
After a closer look, it looked like someone initially cut into the the sheath and used a wire to connect everything (hence the crappy electrical tape job and then later on took the connector off, twisted the wires and popped the connector back on.
As for other areas, what I thought to be questionable splices were just extra electrical tape @ rub points and as a way to keep wires organized.
My initial reaction was from a position of ignorance of bike wiring.

[Papa_Complex]

Originally Posted by pauldun170

So far the only questionable splice was the kickstand switch wire.
After a closer look, it looked like someone initially cut into the the sheath and used a wire to connect everything (hence the crappy electrical tape job and then later on took the connector off, twisted the wires and popped the connector back on.
As for other areas, what I thought to be questionable splices were just extra electrical tape @ rub points and as a way to keep wires organized.
My initial reaction was from a position of ignorance of bike wiring.

Take a look at a racebike that's been stripped of everything, right down to the wiring harness, and you'll never make that mistake again.

[pauldun170]

Just retested.

Had battery on charger most of the day.
Popped it in
At first all the lights come on fairly strong.
Hit the start button...nothing but a click.
Turn key off then back on lights are dim, buzz from the ignitor and then lights begin to fade.
Also tach needle is floating.
(Identical issue http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...ing-sound.html )

Hook jumper cables up to the car and no problemo.

So I think the solution to my problem is to install my wifes car as a sidecar.

[askmrjesus]

Originally Posted by pauldun170

Just retested.

Had battery on charger most of the day.
Popped it in
At first all the lights come on fairly strong.
Hit the start button...nothing but a click.
Turn key off then back on lights are dim, buzz from the ignitor and then lights begin to fade.
Also tach needle is floating.
(Identical issue http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...ing-sound.html )

Hook jumper cables up to the car and no problemo.

So I think the solution to my problem is to install my wifes car as a sidecar.

This is the new battery, right?

JC

[pauldun170]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

This is the new battery, right?

JC

Yup..the Powersonic PTX14-bs (Originally ordered a powersonic YTX14-bs but they switched it on me after I ordered and gave me the AGM battery since they ran outof the YTX) that was supposed to replace the unrechargeable ancient mangled Yuasa that was in there.

It looks like cheapo replacement battery is cheapo for a reason.

[askmrjesus]

Originally Posted by pauldun170

It looks like cheapo replacement battery is cheapo for a reason.

Powersonic?

Where'd you but that, the Home Shopping Channel?

Did it come with steak knives, or a vacuum attachment?

JC

[Porkchop]

Originally Posted by Homeslice

Honda regulator/rectifiers are known to be crap, it's affected CBR's for the last 10-12 years, although supposedly not as bad these days.

And all of the VFRs since the mid-90's. VFR's just burn them up like crazy. They were shit stock pieces, no doubt from cheap parts that arent up to the task. Most likely cost cutting. Honda should know better, and should have fixed it a long time ago. An R1 R/R is usually the best option for the VFR. Much bigger with larger and deeper cooling fins.

Originally Posted by pauldun170

I've also ordered a Battery Tender Plus because my Die Hard 2\10\50 charger annoys me.

Our 2/10/50 charger was essential in getting the 500 back running because we had to crank on it so much initially to get it to bite until we got the carbs right after many attempts at cleaning. It would run the battery down in no time and my Tender doesnt put out enough juice to roll it over. The 2/10/50 was a godsend....

[Papa_Complex]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Powersonic?

Where'd you but that, the Home Shopping Channel?

Did it come with steak knives, or a vacuum attachment?

JC

Sounds like something you'd get at Pacific Mall, north of Toronto.

"Powasonic good battery. You buy! Work long time! You buy, you get free DVD playa.

You be hea fo owa. You go now."

[goof2]

I've got an "off" brand in my bike too. Even at dealer cost the factory Yuasa is around $130. I'm happy with the weird-ass brand that was $40 and still working fine after 2 years.